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98 James Suckling
This is racy and aromatic, with blossom honey, lemons, limes and crushed stone. Some Thai basil, too. It’s medium- to full-bodied with fresh acidity and plenty of energy. Solid and polished in the Haut-Brion way. Better to leave this for three or four years.
97 Robert Parker
A candidate for the title of wine of the vintage, the 2021 Haut-Brion unwinds in the glass with aromas of rich red and black fruit mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, licorice, black truffles, loamy soil and burning embers. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's elegant and multidimensional, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and ultra-refined tannins. Combining the classical proportions of the vintages of two decades ago with the viticultural and winemaking of today, it's a timeless classic in the making, but it's difficult to find an obvious analogy with an older vintage. When pressed, Jean-Philippe Delmas suggests a superior version of the 2014 vintage, and to me, a more concentrated, serious version of the 2012 vintage also comes to mind. What is clear, however, is that this is one of the real high points of 2021. The blend is 50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc, and it attained 13.8% alcohol—a percentage point or so lower than in 2020 or 2019.
97 Robert Parker
A candidate for the title of wine of the vintage, the 2021 Haut-Brion unwinds in the glass with aromas of rich red and black fruit mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, licorice, black truffles, loamy soil and burning embers. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's elegant and multidimensional, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and ultra-refined tannins. Combining the classical proportions of the vintages of two decades ago with the viticultural and winemaking of today, it's a timeless classic in the making, but it's difficult to find an obvious analogy with an older vintage. When pressed, Jean-Philippe Delmas suggests a superior version of the 2014 vintage, and to me, a more concentrated, serious version of the 2012 vintage also comes to mind. What is clear, however, is that this is one of the real high points of 2021. The blend is 50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc, and it attained 13.8% alcohol—a percentage point or so lower than in 2020 or 2019.
Producteur
Château Haut Brion
Au nombre des quatre propriétés classées Premier Cru lors du fameux classement de 1855, le Château Haut-Brion se singularise d’autant plus qu’il est le seul à être implanté hors du Médoc. L’antériorité viticole du château est très ancienne, plus encore que celle de ses homologues répertoriés Grands Crus Classés du Médoc. Cette singularité en fait donc la véritable idole des Graves. Située en périphérie sud-ouest du centre ville de Bordeaux, la propriété, d’une superficie de 51 hectares, figure dans l’aire d’appellation Pessac-Léognan. Son vignoble fait la part belle aux cépages rouges, seuls trois hectares étant plantés des variétés sémillon et sauvignon blanc, à la base de ses blancs au boisé léger. La propriété appartient de nos jours aux mêmes propriétaires que le Château La Mission Haut-Brion et La Tour Haut-Brion. A la tête du domaine, le Prince Robert Dillon du Luxembourg représente la famille Dillon. Comparée aux Premiers Crus plus importants en superficie, la production du Château Haut-Brion est certes relativement faible, mais ses vins rouges et blancs sont magnifiques. Son second vin, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, rivalise avec le Grand Vin de Haut-Brion, pourtant exquis, dont la proportion de merlot est élevée. Le château offre également un Haut-Brion blanc, fermenté en barrique, de même qu’un second blanc, issu des vignobles de Haut-Brion et de la Mission Haut-Brion, qui porte le nom de La Clarté de Haut-Brion.