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85 Robert Parker
My early notes on this wine were inconsistent, but two tastings of the 1981 in the late eighties revealed a flattering, gentle, medium-bodied wine with a smoky, vanillin oakiness, round, ripe flavors, and a soft, luscious finish. It lacks some guts and richness by the standards of most Haut-Brion vintages since 1978, but, nevertheless, it is a charming, lighter-weight, forward wine that has reached its plateau of maturity. Anticipated maturity: Now-2000. Last tasted, 1/91.
82 Wine Spectator
The smoke and menthol aromas are attractive, but the wine flattens out on the palate, with gripping tannins and cooked, vegetal flavors. The finish is short. It's distinctive, but beginning to stagger. Tasted several times, with consistent notes.--The Bordeaux 50. ?JS
Producer
Château Haut Brion
One of the four original properties classified as a First Growth in the famous 1855 Classification, Château Haut-Brion is even more unique for the fact that they were the only property outside of Médoc to be included. The château has had a long history in viticulture, dating further back than its Médoc Grand Cru Classé counterparts, making this estate a true Graves idol. Situated just southwest of Bordeaux’s city center, the 51-hectare property belongs to the Pessac-Léognan appellation. Dominated by red plantings, a mere three hectares of vineyards are dedicated to the growth of their lightly oaked white varieties, Sémillion and Sauvignon Blanc. Today the property is under the same ownership as Château La Mission Haut-Brion and La Tour Haut-Brion. The Dillon family is represented by Prince Robert Dillon of Luxembourg who now runs the estate. When compared to the larger First Growths, Château Haut-Brion has a rather small production of magnificent reds and whites. The estate’s second wine, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion can almost rival the exquisite Grand Vin, Haut-Brion that contains a high percentage of Merlot. The château also produces a barrel-fermented Haut-Brion Blanc, along with a second white, made from both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, labeled as La Clarté de Haut-Brion.