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17 Rene Gabriel
In den ersten zwanzig Jahren seines Lebens wenig erbauliche Notizen. Er schien zu dünn und zeigte grüne, an Pfefferschoten erinnernde Cabernet-Noten. Auch schien es sehr unterschiedliche Flaschen zu geben. Nicht wenige davon waren sehr oxydativ. 03: Aufhellendes Ziegelrot-Orange mit starkem Wasserrand. Grün anmutendes Bouquet, Pfefferschoten, Lakritze, Lorbeeren; eher kalt in der Ausstrahlung, schwarzer Pfeffer. Im Gaumen schlank, pilzige und trotzdem süsse Noten, nasser Waldboden, Totentrompeten, weiche Säure, im Finale harmonisch und sehr schokoladig. Macht echt Spass und überrascht mich umso mehr, wenn ich meine früheren Eindrücke betrachte.
90 Wine Spectator
At a lovely, mature level, yet still sweet and inviting, with a veil of chewy tannins around the pretty raspberry flavors and a touch of herb to enliven the finish.--Haut-Brion vertical. -HS
86 Robert Parker
In decline, this wine seems to have become kinkier and weirder as it has developed over the least 5-6 years. The color is a dark plum, and the nose offers up a very sweet nose of rotting vegetation, melted asphalt, and autumnal leaves. The wine shows plenty of amber at the edge, and the finish seems to be losing fruit and showing more tannin and acidity. This wine seems to be in major decline. Anticipated maturity: Drink up. Last tasted, 11/02.
Producer
Château Haut Brion
One of the four original properties classified as a First Growth in the famous 1855 Classification, Château Haut-Brion is even more unique for the fact that they were the only property outside of Médoc to be included. The château has had a long history in viticulture, dating further back than its Médoc Grand Cru Classé counterparts, making this estate a true Graves idol. Situated just southwest of Bordeaux’s city center, the 51-hectare property belongs to the Pessac-Léognan appellation. Dominated by red plantings, a mere three hectares of vineyards are dedicated to the growth of their lightly oaked white varieties, Sémillion and Sauvignon Blanc. Today the property is under the same ownership as Château La Mission Haut-Brion and La Tour Haut-Brion. The Dillon family is represented by Prince Robert Dillon of Luxembourg who now runs the estate. When compared to the larger First Growths, Château Haut-Brion has a rather small production of magnificent reds and whites. The estate’s second wine, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion can almost rival the exquisite Grand Vin, Haut-Brion that contains a high percentage of Merlot. The château also produces a barrel-fermented Haut-Brion Blanc, along with a second white, made from both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, labeled as La Clarté de Haut-Brion.