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99 By Robert Parker
99 By Robert Parker
93 By Wine Spectator
93 By Wine Spectator
Reminiscing over the 1989 and 1990 vintages, which I have followed from birth, there always seemed to be a dramatic difference in quality. Not that the 1990 was not a top wine, but in its infancy, I never thought it would come close to being as riveting and magnetic as its older sibling, the 1989. However, it has proven to be nearly as prodigious. One of the hottest years in Bordeaux, 1990, a vintage of enormous yields, even dwarfing yields in 1985 and 1982, produced a fabulously open-knit, seemingly fast track La Mission that, at age 22, shows no signs of fading or losing its grip. The color is slightly more mature and evolved than the 1989’s, exhibiting a lighter rim and a less dark blue/ruby/purple hue. Classic La Mission-Haut-Brion aromatics of camphor, licorice, scorched earth, hot bricks, barbecue, cassis, blueberry and kirsch are well displayed. Broad, expansive, velvety-textured and opulent with high glycerin and perhaps slightly higher alcohol (I don’t have the statistics to verify that), the 1990 is as delicious and open-knit as the 1989, with less density and possibly less potential longevity. Most 1990s have been quick to reach full maturity, and as brilliant as they can be, they need to be monitored carefully by owners. Currently in late adolescence, but close to full maturity, the 1990 should hold in a cold cellar for another 15-20 years. However, it is a fabulous wine to inspect, taste and consume, so why wait?
Producer
Château La Mission Haut Brion
Similarly owned by the Dillon family, Château La Mission Haut-Brion is certainly the second best producer in the Pessac-Léognan appellation, after its neighbor and Graves greatest producer, Château Haut-Brion. With a history beginning in the early 16th century, La Mission Haut-Brion now justly rivals its sister winery in more than just select vintages, the estate has actually been raised to a comparable First Growth rank in 2009. While the Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé’s La Tour Haut-Brion, used to be La Mission’s second wine, it is now a separately owned brand, however still managed by the Dillon family. The 29-hectare property is planted primarily to the production of their first-rate reds. Their La Mission Haut-Brion is the flagship wine, it is exemplary of their house style - rich, barrel-fermented, dense, and powerful. The château also produces La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion, a second wine that is riper but nonetheless arousing.