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87 By Robert Parker
Tasted at the Montrose vertical in London, previous encounters with the 1979 Montrose have been a rum experience. Like the 1978, however, this was better. It was picked between 29 September and 14 October after a rather cloudy month. Certainly it shows its age with wide bricking on the rim. The nose is leathery and rather dour, although I noticed a touch of mint developing in the glass among dusty tertiary aromas. The palate is medium-bodied without the same cohesion as the 1978. However, the bottle was undeniably fresh with red rather than black fruit, a fine seem of acidity and a simple, pastille-like finish. The 1979 is not going to get any better, so pop the cork sooner rather than later if you have any bottles. Tasted June 2016.<br/>
Producer
Château Montrose
Producing outstanding Bordeaux year after year, this 95-hectare property, Château Montrose is a classified Second Growth in the Saint-Estèphe hierarchy. Just north of Pauillac, Montrose is ideally-situated on a gravelly, well-drained plot that runs along the Gironde estuary for over a kilometer. The local microclimate, unique to Montrose works to mitigate temperatures, protecting the vines from devastating frosts as well as equally destructive heatwaves. The patchwork of a vineyard, planted on the world’s most privileged winegrowing terroirs, has been owned by Martin and Olivier Bouygues since 2006. In 2012 they brought in Hervé Berland, the former managing director of Mouton Rothschild to act as estate manager. This spectacular Saint-Estèphe château crafts three wines, they are immense, powerful, dense and long-lived. The leading wine, Montrose is a monumental fleshy, and persuasive red.