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99 By James Suckling
99 By Vinous
98 By Wine Spectator
This is incredibly complex, with all the cabernet descriptors, from mint and lead pencil to blackberry, blackcurrant and menthol. It changes all the time in the glass, just as in the nose. Yet, it remains cool and classy. Full-bodied with very fine, tight tannins that run the length of the wine, carrying on and on and on. Well-framed and compact wine. Never-ending procession of currant, berry and black cherry fruit, together with licorice, earth and just a hint of black truffle. 90% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot and 1% petit verdot. Give this until 2028 to show its true greatness.
Producer
Château Mouton Rothschild
Unique among the Bordeaux First Growths, Château Mouton Rothschild has been the only estate to join its high ranking after the famed 1855 Classification. In 1973, Baron Philippe de Rothschild successfully lobbied for the château, resulting in their Premiers Crus status that we know today. While their wines continuously reign top of the Classified Growths, their opulence and approachability paired with dark cassis notes, and powerful tannins has stayed true to their premium blending style. Baron Philippe said it perfectly, upon their elevated rank, “Premier je suis. Second je fus. Mouton ne change”, meaning “First I am. Second I was. Mouton does not change.” For many years, the estate was run by his daughter and art enthusiast, Baroness Philippine until her passing in 2014. Thanks to her, iconic artists like Andy Warhol, Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Keith Haring and Georges Braque have designed several labels for various vintages. In addition to their famous flagship, Mouton Rothschild, and their second label, Le Petit Mouton, a smaller production of a premium white, Aile d’Argent is also tempting.