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Champagne Brut La Grande Année 2004 75cl

AOC | Vallée de la Marne | Champagne | Frankreich
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Rezensionen & Bewertungen
94 Wine Spectator
Firm, with well-cut acidity and a fine texture, this is aromatic, delivering a skein of ground spice and graphite notes that mesh seamlessly with the flavors of black currant, black cherry, toasted almond, financier, honey and smoky mineral. Offers a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2024. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 3,000 cases imported. –AN
93 Robert Parker
All that having been noted, it is Kaufmann and then-director Ghislain de Montgolfier who can take responsibility for the success that is Bollinger’s 2004 Brut Grande Annee, a bottling that, in marrying the restraint associated with young wines from this house with that of a relatively cool and copious but ultimately fascinating vintage, has rendered a work of subtle intrigue and refinement that will merit a dozen or more years’ attention. Quite pale in color and with unexpectedly green-gold shimmering, this two-thirds Pinot Noir cuvee displays alluringly silken texture and refinement of mousse as well as delicacy. Fresh white peach, yellow tomato, lime, and rhubarb offer subtly tart, brightly juicy succulence, and a mingling of chalk and sweet-saline oyster liquor serves for saliva-inducement in a long finish tinged with lightly toasted grains and nuts. It will be good to return next year to Bollinger, one of the houses I visited on my first day in Champagne 30 years ago and a longtime favorite; but for 2014, I was forced by press of time and complications of scheduling to limit myself to tasting a single new release. Early this year, dozen-year veteran Bollinger chef de cave Mathieu Kauffmann unexpectedly announced his resignation to join Reichsrat von Buhl (part of recently deceased Achim Niederberger’s plan for renewing that venerable Pfalz estate, inter alia through increased attention to its already impressive sparkling wine program), and in June Bollinger’s director Jerome Philipon announced that Kaufmann’s former right-hand, Gilles Descotes, would succeed him.
Hersteller
Bollinger
Als einer der größten Namen in der Champagne verzeichnet das Haus Bollinger seit seiner Gründung 1829 durch Jacques Bollinger und Paul Renaudin ein kontinuierliches Wachtum. Die stärkste Expansion fand Mitte bis Ende der 1990er Jahre unter Führung von Madame Lily Bollinger statt. Heute ist deren Großneffe Ghislain de Montgolfier Geschäftsführer des legendären Weinguts, das sein internationales Renommee vor allem seinem Ehrgeiz verdankt, feine und dabei kraftvolle und komplexe Champagner unter Dominanz von Pinot Noir zu produzieren. Die jahrgangslose Special Cuvée ist betont rassig – ein reicher und fülliger Schaumwein, während die überragenden Grande Année und Grande Anneé Rosé ebenfalls Spitzenränge unter den Champagnern einnehmen. Der beachtenswerte Champagne R.D. (récemment dégorgé oder spät degorgiert) profitiert von bis zu zehn Jahren Hefesatzlagerung. Die kremigen, gar gerösteten Geschmacksnoten machen diesen außergewöhnlich gut ausgewogenen Wein zu einem Aushängeschild Bollingers.