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Testamatta 2018 75cl

IGT | Toskana | Italien
CHF 81.10
Rezensionen & Bewertungen
97 James Sukling
Very subtle aromas of cherries, bark, black truffles and flowers. Hints of crushed stones. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight and solid with a very tight, minerally structure. Very long and intense. Racy and bright at the end. Powerful, orange-peel and citrus-fruit undertones. Salty and minerally. This needs time to develop in the bottle. Extremely structured. A wine not to touch until after 2023.
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
Hersteller
Bibi Graetz
Bibi Graetz ist in erster Linie Künstler und Absolvent der Academia dell’Arte in Florenz, der in den späten 1990er-Jahren den Wein für sich entdeckte und seitdem zu einem der kreativsten Winzer der Toskana wurde. Der in Italien geborene und aufgewachsene Graetz, der nie eine formale Weinausbildung genossen hat, produziert seine Weine am Familiensitz in Fiesole, einer Burg namens Castello di Vincigliata. Schon früh verlegte er sich auf den Anbau einheimischer toskanischer Sorten, vorwiegend Sangiovese, aber auch Colorino und Canaiolo und sehr geringe Mengen Malvasia Nera und Moscato Nero. Die Früchte stammen von 30 bis 60 Jahre alten Reben in der Region Chianti Classico, einschließlich der Maremma, der Insel Giglio und Montalcino. Die Vinifikation erfolgt in offenen Fermentern, und die Resultate sind von einem tintenschwarzen Rot und offenbaren eine spektakuläre Intensität und Genialität. Das Flaggschiff Testamatta (was soviel heißt wie „Hitzkopf“) ist ein kraftstrotzender Roter aus ausschließlich alten Sangiovese, mit Noten von Kirsche und Tabak. Eine weitere Besonderheit dieser Weine sind ihre Etiketten, die Graetz, von der toskanischen Sonne inspiriert, alle selber entwirft. Die Weine dieses von der Kunst geküssten Kultwinzers werden mit jedem Jahrgang noch besser und sind hochgradig sammelwürdige Toskaner.