96 Robert Parker
The 1989 Sori Tilden is a monument to the Nebbiolo grape, as well as to Barbaresco. Not surprisingly, it is the most backward, tannic, muscular, and masculine of the Gaja Barbarescos. With tons of tannin, and a broad, rich, fleshy, expansive personality, it is the least flattering. Do not touch a bottle for at least 6-7 years. It should last until 2020.
Admirers of great wine will no doubt be debating the merits of Gaja's 1989s and 1990s for the next two or three decades. Both are spectacular vintages. When I tasted them side by side in March, the 1990s possessed a slight edge in terms of concentration and power. That does not mean they will ultimately turn out better, but they are fabulously impressive wines of unprecedented complexity, stature, and richness. The Barbarescos are among the glories of this estate (Angelo Gaja is Italy's most influential wine producer), and the 1989s and 1990s promise to be the best produced since 1985 and 1982. Choosing between these two sensational vintages will not be easy. For all his success, the admirable Angelo Gaja remains fanatically committed to excellence, and because of that he is Piedmont's reference point, as well as an inspiration to many of the young growers just beginning to estate bottle their wines.
96 Wine Spectator
Ripe and succulent, so plush it is almost sweet, offering bright, lively plum, black cherry and raspberry flavors shaded with toast, sweet vanilla and spice overtones, an absolutely gorgeous wine that remains elegant and supple despite its muscular core. 890 cases made. ?