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97 By Robert Parker
97 By James Suckling
The 2008 Pingus is one of the finest that I have tasted. It is closed on the nose at first, broody even, and giving it a few encouraging swirls is akin to awakening a giant. It opens gloriously with small dark cherries, black olives, crushed stone and violet, an underlying minerality that is difficult to ignore. The palate is blessed with a Chateau Margaux-like sense of symmetry that leads to a tensile, precise finish that carries on for a minute in the mouth. This will turn out to be an awesome Pingus. Drink 2018-2040. Dominio de Pingus is located in the La Horra region of Ribera del Duero. Owner/winemaker, Peter Sisseck, an oenologist originally from Denmark, started the estate in 1995. There are currently 3 wines produced, Flor de Pingus, a single barrel cuvee called Amelia which began in 2003, and the flagship Pingus. In a normal vintage there are usually about 4000 cases of Flor de Pingus, 500 cases of Pingus, and 25 cases of Amelia. Flor de Pingus is sourced from a number of small parcels located in the La Horra zone. The vines are all over 35 years of age and have been farmed biodynamically since 2005.They are either owned or rented by Peter Sisseck, so Flor de Pingus always comes from the same pieces of ground. In that sense it is not a second wine but there is no question that is a very close approximation of Pingus at a fraction of the price. That makes it a relative bargain in the scheme of things. The wine is 100% Tempranillo typically aged for 14 months in new French barriques. The first vintage of Pingus was in 1995. The estate has been biodynamically farmed since 2000 and, according to Sisseck, has never been treated with fertilizer or pesticides. The Pingus vines are all at least 65 years of age and yields are typically under 1 ton per acre. The wines, made from 100% Tempranillo, are bottled without fining or filtration.
Producer
Dominio de Pingus
The recently established, but not at all inexperienced, Dominio de Pingus estate has gathered quite a following since 1995, making them one of today’s top cult-wines coming from the Ribera del Duero. Owner, Peter Sisseck had already made a name for himself as vigneron of Hacienda Monasterio before acquiring several plots planted to old vine Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) for himself. Sisseck takes a more modern approach to his wines, using malolactic fermentation in barrel to produce supple, velvety textured wines. His efforts are more than appreciated, creating intense, pure, dark and even spicy fruit flavors throughout his best wines. His original aim to produce “an unmistakably Spanish, terroir-driven wine…a garage wine,” has come to terms in his world-acclaimed wines. Extremely limited, his best wine, Pingus, a pure Tempranillo has consistently been a showstopper – ranking amongst the best of the appellation year after year. The award winning estate also produces a more reasonably priced Flor de Pingus, and PSI, a blend of predominately Tempranillo and Garnacha making the wine fruit-forward, fresh and pleasantly approachable.