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98 By Robert Parker
Warning: this incredible white Burgundy can leave you speechless. Appraised blind, everyone fortunate enough to have a glass of this Corton-Charlemagne in front of them, recognized its greatness. The bouquet is imbued with spine-tingling mineralite and a shimmering tension that is impossible to encapsulate in words. It just leaves you with a huge smile on your face. The palate neatly interlocks with the aromatics, that mineral tension just leaving you breathless with admiration. This is not a case of a kaleidoscope of flavors queuing to have their say, rather a masterclass in precision, nuance, texture and bewitching harmony. This is spellbinding in every way and if you have a bottle in your cellar, then God must have smiled upon you. Tasted August 2013.
Producer
Domaine Coche-Dury
Coche-Dury is not only one of the most iconic producers in all of Burgundy, but they are also one of the most enigmatic. It feels like a golden ticket is necessary to get through their cellar doors. They have no email and the only way one might be able to get an appointment is through a fax. Maybe. But doubtful. They are also incredibly humble. They know the greatness of their wines, but they are still simple 'vignerons'. What matters to them the most is working in the vines and allowing the grapes best express the terroir. Jean-François Coche, the patriarch of the domaine, began working with his father in the early 1970s. In 1975, he married Odile Dury which added to the family holdings, creating the name 'Coche-Dury'. Today, his son Raphaël has more or less taken over with the help of his young wife, Charline. From their almost 9 hectares of vines, they produce Bourgogne, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses, Monthélie, Volnay, and their two most famous appellations - Meursault (various bottlings) and Corton-Charlemagne. Unlike other producers of the region, they resisted much change and the way they make their wines now is the way that they have long produced them. They also like their wines to have verve so tend to pick earlier than later to keep the grapes innate acidity.