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96 By Robert Parker
The 1991 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is still entrancing after 22 years. The aromatics rivet you to the spot with its compelling scents of dried yellow flowers, minerals and lemon zest that has an almost unnatural level of vibrancy. The palate has a viscous entry and remains exquisitely balanced with stunning tension and vibrancy. It then glides effortlessly towards a lightly nutty finish that leaves you gasping for the next sip. Magical! Drink now-2020+. Tasted November 2013. Here is another raft of wines from the most feted and yet still mysterious Cote de Beaune growers. Jean-Francois Coche’s reds are more elusive than his whites, but they can be astonishing.
Producer
Domaine Coche-Dury
Coche-Dury is not only one of the most iconic producers in all of Burgundy, but they are also one of the most enigmatic. It feels like a golden ticket is necessary to get through their cellar doors. They have no email and the only way one might be able to get an appointment is through a fax. Maybe. But doubtful. They are also incredibly humble. They know the greatness of their wines, but they are still simple 'vignerons'. What matters to them the most is working in the vines and allowing the grapes best express the terroir. Jean-François Coche, the patriarch of the domaine, began working with his father in the early 1970s. In 1975, he married Odile Dury which added to the family holdings, creating the name 'Coche-Dury'. Today, his son Raphaël has more or less taken over with the help of his young wife, Charline. From their almost 9 hectares of vines, they produce Bourgogne, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses, Monthélie, Volnay, and their two most famous appellations - Meursault (various bottlings) and Corton-Charlemagne. Unlike other producers of the region, they resisted much change and the way they make their wines now is the way that they have long produced them. They also like their wines to have verve so tend to pick earlier than later to keep the grapes innate acidity.