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95 Robert Parker
have been telling people for years that this domaine's "best buy," if such a label can be applied here, is the Grands Echezeaux. While it is not Romanee-Conti or La Tache, it often comes very close to those two titans, at a fraction of the price. In 1988, it is fabulous. In fact, my unedited tasting notes had the words "fabulous" in them twice and "awesome" once. It is decadently rich and spicy with an extraordinary perfume of violets, gamey, plum-like fruit, toasty new oak, and a finish that must last several minutes. It, like the Echezeaux, should not be consumed for at least 5 years, and should easily last until 2010 or longer. The prices for the wines of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti may be exorbitant but the quality of the wines produced in the eighties is truly remarkable. The 1988s are celestial wines selling at stratospheric prices. The 1988 production was twice what it was in 1987, but the same as in 1985. The 1988s are fuller-bodied, deeper, more concentrated wines than the superb 1987s, and will need some time in the cellar to shed their generous amounts of tannin. The only vintage they can be favorably compared with is the 1985 vintage, and the 1985s were a great deal more forward and flattering to taste when young. There is more depth in the 1988s than in the 1986s or even the superb 1980s (which turned out to be the finest wines made in that underrated vintage).
95 Robert Parker
have been telling people for years that this domaine's "best buy," if such a label can be applied here, is the Grands Echezeaux. While it is not Romanee-Conti or La Tache, it often comes very close to those two titans, at a fraction of the price. In 1988, it is fabulous. In fact, my unedited tasting notes had the words "fabulous" in them twice and "awesome" once. It is decadently rich and spicy with an extraordinary perfume of violets, gamey, plum-like fruit, toasty new oak, and a finish that must last several minutes. It, like the Echezeaux, should not be consumed for at least 5 years, and should easily last until 2010 or longer. The prices for the wines of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti may be exorbitant but the quality of the wines produced in the eighties is truly remarkable. The 1988s are celestial wines selling at stratospheric prices. The 1988 production was twice what it was in 1987, but the same as in 1985. The 1988s are fuller-bodied, deeper, more concentrated wines than the superb 1987s, and will need some time in the cellar to shed their generous amounts of tannin. The only vintage they can be favorably compared with is the 1985 vintage, and the 1985s were a great deal more forward and flattering to taste when young. There is more depth in the 1988s than in the 1986s or even the superb 1980s (which turned out to be the finest wines made in that underrated vintage).
92 Wine Spectator
Deep and concentrated, with lots of smoky nutmeg and tea overtones to the core of plum and cherry flavor, hinting at violet on the nose. Very firm and tannic; will need until 2000 to soften. Should age well. 1,000 cases made. ?
92 Wine Spectator
Deep and concentrated, with lots of smoky nutmeg and tea overtones to the core of plum and cherry flavor, hinting at violet on the nose. Very firm and tannic; will need until 2000 to soften. Should age well. 1,000 cases made. ?
Hersteller
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Dies ist nicht nur die ikonischste Domaine in Burgund, sondern womöglich in ganz Frankreich und auf der ganzen Welt. Mit einem Monopol der beiden größten Weinberge Romanée-Conti und La Tâche, und einer guten Handvoll weiterer in Vosne-Romanée und darüber hinaus, konnte sie sich, bei aller Diskretion und Bescheidenheit, ihren ruhmreichen Status sichern. Sie befindet sich in Gemeinschaftseigentum der beiden Familien Villaine und Leroy-Roch, mit Aubert de Villaine als Geschätsführer seit 1974. Ihre Wurzeln reichen jedoch bis ins 13. Jahrhundert, als die Mönche von Saint-Vivant die ersten Reben setzten. Seit den 1980er-Jahren erfolgt die Bewirtschaftung ökologisch, und seit den 1990ern biodynamisch. Dies ist zweifellos auch die berühmteste Domaine der Region, die die ganzen Trauben fermentiert (und dies schon immer getan hat), ein etabliertes Verfahren, das Henri Jayer vermied, in den letzten Jahren aber viele andere Erzeuger inspiriert hat. Allen Meadows, der vielleicht versierteste Burgunder-Experte und -Kritiker auf der Welt, hat nur einem einzigen Wein jemals die perfekte Bewertung zugestanden – dem 1945er Romanée-Conti.