Barolo 2014 75cl

Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2014 Barolo has put on a good bit of weight since I first tasted it, yet it remains nervous, tightly wound and compact - which is to say, very much in the style of the year. Time in the glass brings out a host of bright red cherry, pomegranate, mint, leather and orange peel nuances, but only with reluctance. The 2014 is a positively electric Barolo, but it likely won't be ready to charm anytime soon. Readers should plan on cellaring it for at least a handful of years. Sadly, production is down by 40%.

Here is another very successful expression from one of the appellation's legendary estates at the heart of Barolo. The 2014 Barolo is light and delicate in appearance with a delightful bouquet of wild rose, forest berry and blue fruit. Violets and lavender give the bouquet a pretty sense of lift and intensity that reminds you of the cool climate and long growing season that characterizes this vintage. This wine also offers evident freshness with bright berry flavors and a subtle feeling of crisp crunchiness. The tannins are superbly integrated within the silky and streamlined body of this elegant Barolo. This wine will surely offer exciting bottle evolution.

Camphor, fresh earth, incense and tobacco notes swirl around the core of cherry, rendering this aromatic. Firm on the palate, yet balanced, with a lingering aftertaste of sweet fruit, hay and tobacco. Best from 2022 through 2035.—B.S.