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100 Robert Parker
I tasted the 2012 Pingus one week before bottling, so it should be pretty close to the final version as all the lots are assembled and everything is ready. But more than anything, the wine was so exciting that I could not wait until next year to let you know. The 2012 is produced with the biodynamically grown grapes from two very old Tempranillo plots (over 80 years of age), totaling 4.5 hectares in La Horra (Burgos): Barroso is located in an old Duero terrace with a gravel and sandy soil on a chalk and clay subsoil, and San Cristobal which is a clay southwest facing slope. In this vintage, 46% of the clusters fermented with the stems in small, 2,000-liter oak foudres. Malolactic fermentation was carried out in used French oak barrels and the wine was aged for 21 months in second-use French oak barriques: no new oak was used at all. 2012 is really impressive; the word that comes to mind is precision. It-s a really focused, sharp, elegant, harmonious and subtle Ribera, with a mixture of earth, fruit and spice singing in the same wave length. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with a level of precision and integration difficult to find. The tannins have an impressive silky texture, great length and persistence. I see Pingus coming to a new level with this vintage. 6,000 bottles will be filled in 2012. This is a superb vintage for Pingus, a good candidate for a perfect wine. I can only imagine how perfect these grapes were. I get butterflies in my stomach. Drink 2015-2028. I had a relaxed and superb tasting with Peter Sisseck, where we had time to discuss the wines and Ribera del Duero in general as Sisseck is now part of the Consejo Regulador. It was also a great learning experience as he showed me some experimental wines that resulted in adjustments from the 2012 vintage onward, and a big jump in precision for the wines, with the yet unbottled 2012 Pingus verging on perfection. He explained the range of wines he produces as it follows: PSI is the regional wine, Flor de Pingus is the village, and Pingus is the Cru. PSI is the newer wine in the lineup and the one that might require more explanation. In 2007, a difficult vintage in Ribera del Duero, he lost quite a lot of grapes for Flor de Pingus because of a big hailstorm, so he had to look for grapes he could purchase. He then realized how much Ribera had grown: from 6,000 hectares in 1985 to 9,000 hectares in 1990 and more than 22,000 hectares today! There is a big surplus of grapes, so the grapes from old vineyards are not valued. He decided that he wanted to support the people who were keeping their old vineyards and not ripping them up, or going to younger vines and high yields. He purchased their grapes, paid a fair price and produced PSI with them. Besides tasting extensively and slowly, I retasted 2010 Pingus and I also had the chance to preview the 2013 Pingus (clean, pure, with great acidity, but still too young) plus some experimental cuvees, some of which might see the light in the future. They have never produced better wines at Pingus. Bravo!
Produttore
Dominio de Pingus
La tenuta Dominio de Pingus, fondata di recente, ma con una certa esperienza alle spalle, ha un buon seguito dal 1995, che ha reso i suoi vini tra i più celebrati della Ribera del Duero. Il proprietario, Peter Sisseck, si era già fatto un nome come vigneron di Hacienda Monasterio prima di acquistare alcuni appezzamenti piantati con vecchie viti di Tinto Fino (Tempranillo). Sisseck segue un approccio più moderno per i suoi vini, utilizzando la fermentazione malolattica in botte per produrre vini morbidi e vellutati. I suoi sforzi sono più che apprezzati e creano aromi intensi, puri, fruttati e persino speziati in tutti i suoi vini migliori. Il suo obiettivo di produrre "un vino spagnolo inconfondibile e guidato dal terroir... un vino di garage" si è realizzato nei vini acclamati in tutto il mondo. Il vino principale, Pingus, è un Tempranillo in purezza prodotto in quantità estremamente limitata ed è sempre il pezzo forte della produzione, classificato tra i migliori della denominazione anno dopo anno. La premiata tenuta produce anche il Flor de Pingus a un prezzo più accessibile e il PSI, un assemblaggio principalmente di Tempranillo e Garnacha, che rende il vino fruttato, fresco e piacevolmente accessibile.