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Fontenil 2003 75cl

AOC | Canon Fronsac | Bordeaux | France
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Critics scores
90 Robert Parker
Fontenil is the home estate of the brilliant husband and wife oenologists, Michel and Dany Rolland. The authoritative, dark ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Fontenil offers hints of plums, blackberries, blueberries, charcoal, and smoke in its ripe, dense, moderately tannic personality. Give this broad, savory, full-bodied effort 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 12-14 years.
90 Wine Spectator
Impressive aromas of toasted oak and ripe fruit with some chocolate underneath. Full and round, with velvety tannins and a medium fruity finish. Very tannic and chewy. Should come around nicely with bottle age. Best after 2008. 3,250 cases made. ?JS
Producer
Château Fontenil
Owned by Bordeaux's most prominent oenologist, Michel Rolland, and his oenologist wife, Dany, since 1986, Château Fontenil may be Fronsac's most known estate. It is famed not only for its owners, but also for a special cuvée that was born out of bureaucratic frustration, Défi de Fontenil. In 2000, in order to prevent rain from diluting his grapes, Rolland placed plastic sheeting between the rows of a parcel of his vines so that the water would collect into ditches on the side of his vineyard. As this is a forbidden practice for vintaged appellation wines, the authorities forbade Rolland from producing his normal Fronsac and only gave him the right to produce a non-vintaged Vin de Table, the lowest wine category. In defiance, he continued forward and created Défi de Fontenil, an annual yet non-vintaged production created from this same parcel (and grown with plastic sheeting intact). In addition to this more infamous and micro-bottling, they also produce a flagship wine called Château Fontenil from the majority of their 9 hectares, a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, and a wine that benefits from the Rolland's blending expertise.