92 Wine Spectator
A firm backbone of acidity frames this spicy, vibrant Champagne, joining the finely woven flavors of poached quince, white raspberry, pastry, lemon curd and candied ginger. This evokes raw silk in texture, revealing minerally hints of chalk and fleur de sel on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2021. 3,000 cases made.
89 Robert Parker
The NV Hommage à François Hémart Brut is a tribute to François Hémart, ancestor of Giraud born in Aÿ in 1625. The historical cuvée of the domaine has a straw-yellow to golden color and opens with a clear, intense bouquet of ripe and stewed apples along with brioche, cinnamon and a touch of oak flavors. Intense and almost lush on the perfectly round and elegant palate, this is a pure, dry and finessed 70/30 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Aÿ that has been vinified on the full lees for six months in ovoid vats and aged for another six months in Argonne oak barrels. The finish is clean and dry, bringing back the ripe and stewed apple flavors. The Hommage reveals a serious structure and is a delicious Champagne for many occasions. Disgorged March 2017. 50.000 bottles made. Tasted April 2018.<br/>Henri Giraud is one of the smallest Champagne houses and is fully family owned. The boutique winery in Aÿ (Marne Valley) is led by CEO Claude Giraud, who combines "science and experience with passion and expertise,” and thus is highly innovative and handcrafts Champagnes in a unique style under the direction of Chef du Cave Sébastien Le Golvet. Many of the cuvées (always with a large percentage of Pinot Noir, except for the newer Blanc de Craie, which is a pure Chardonnay) are fermented and aged on the full lees for six to 12 months in Argonne oak barrels before the aging in bottles that takes two to eight years. The alternative to oak? Terracotta amphorae shaped like eggs! Since November 2016, there is no stainless steel vat in the "New Generation Cellar" in Aÿ. Oak and terracotta vats not only allow the wines to breathe, but their small sizes also "boost the interaction between the wine and its entire sediment that contains antioxidants and aromatic precursors,” Claude Giraud explained during the opening of the new cellar one and a half years ago. As a result of the long aging of the vins clairs on the full lees and the partly excessive use of new oak, the cuvées from Henri Giraud have a very particular style whose oak influence is prominent rather than the expression of fruit and terroir. Here, the Argonne Forest seems to be the terroir, and it's up to you if you like the full-bodied, intense, structured, rather vinous style or not. Although I have never tasted really matured wines after disgorgement, I suppose the best will age very, very well and will always be great wines with food. Also, compared to the wines I tasted some years ago, the oak influence has been reduced a bit. The wines have become purer, finer and fresher, at least that's my impression without having tasted the styles side by side. There are some less-oaky cuvées produced here as well. Just try the impressive Dame-Jane Rosé, the charming and finessed Esprit Nature or the delicious Hommage à François Hémart. At the end of last year, the 2008 Argonne Brut was released. It's a rare and spectacular cuvée that comes in equally spectacular packaging that was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. Giraud called the box, which looks like a stylized tree, "the epitome of purity." If you can't (or don't want to) afford the fabulously expensive wine or simply can't find it the store, you should at least Google it! Getting it out of the box is an adventure for itself.
