Côte Rôtie La Landonne 2012 75cl

<br/>The utterly perfect 2012 Côte Rôtie La Landonne is the star of three single vineyards in 2012. Possessing an off-the-charts sexiness in its layered, concentrated and full-bodied style, it has a wealth of fruit, ripe tannin, a stacked mid-palate and pedal-to-the-metal notes of black fruits, scorched earth, caramelized meats and crushed rocks. While this cuvée normally needs a decade to become drinkable, there’s a sweetness of fruit here that allows it to offer incredible pleasure even today. Nevertheless, give bottles 5-6 years and enjoy over the following three decades.<br/>As always, my visit with Marcel and Philippe Guigal is one of the highlights of my entire time spent working in the northern Rhône. As I think the list of wines demonstrate, this is a huge lineup, yet the theme across the entire range is incredible quality. Looking at the top Côte Rôties, the current releases in bottle are the 2012s and these are rich, supple, sexy, even flamboyant wines that will be relatively approachable in their youth, yet have broad drink windows. The 2013s are much more backward and restrained, and built for the long haul, but the long élevage favored at this estate is certainly helping to soften the tannin and give the wines a suppler texture. As to the 2014s, I was shocked at the depth and density this team was able to get in these wines, but this is another vintage that will be approachable in its youth. Lastly, and from vintage described by Marcel as the best of his lifetime (how’s that for perspective?), the 2015s are inky and primordial, with mind-boggling depth and density. These will be reviewed two to three more times before release, but start saving today! Lastly, it’s also worth pointing out that the estate has started utilizing a new cork technique that guarantees no TCA. This doesn’t come cheap and is close to two Euros per cork, but it’s just another example of the attention to detail and the level of effort that this estate puts forth to ensure the quality in the bottle. Hats off to them.

Intense, with a serious iron spine that drives from start to finish, while the core of dark currant, bitter plum and black cherry fruit is held in reserve. The grippy and mineral-driven finish sports loads of tobacco, warm iron and dark earth notes, while displaying terrific cut and drive. A formidable wine. Best from 2020 through 2040. From France.—J.M.