La Mission Haut-Brion 1989 300cl

12: Mitteldunkles Weinrot. Ein gewaltiger Kräuter-, Malz- und Süssweinreigen, Cakesfrüchte, Rosinen und weitere Dörrfrüchte, vollwürziges Mission-Cabernetparfüm, berauschend, aber nicht erdrückend. Reicher, voller Gaumen, nur langsam öffnend, weiche, mollige Tannine, überaromatisches Finale. Gehört fraglos zu den neuen, künftigen Mission-Legenden. Wer davon trinken darf, braucht keine weiteren Erklärungen. Trinken, träumen, taumeln… (20/20). 12: Noch recht dunkel, satt in der Mitte. Zart jodiger Beginn, hat noch Cassisresten, während der Haut-Brion sofort loslegte, gibt sich dieser Mission zu Beginn noch etwas reserviert, alles kommt aus der Tiefe, Perigourd-Trüffel, Brazil-Tabak, Jasmintee. Im Gaumen fest, komplex und mundfüllend, viel Fleisch im Innern, das Extrakt ist noch ganz fein aufrauhend und gibt diesem ungestümen Mission so viel Charakter, im Finale Kräuternoten von Fernet-Branca und Ricola. Von der Kraft her dem Haut-Brion überlegen, betrachtet man nur die Schönheit, so ist der Haut-Brion vorne. Ein Potential für locker 50 weitere Jahre.

Both La Mission-Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion hit home runs in this vintage, which did not produce as many profound wines as the Bordeaux publicity machine suggested. 1989, the 200th anniversary of the French revolution, was an incredibly hot year (surpassed only by 1990 and 2003). Even from barrel the seamless 1989 La Mission revealed a special elixir aspect, tasting like it had been designed by Chanel. It still possesses a blue/purple color with only a hint of garnet creeping in, and the explosive aromatics offer up notes of licorice, creme de cassis, blueberry liqueur, smoky barbecue meats, truffles and graphite. If that’s not enough to get one salivating, the palate has never disappointed either. Full-bodied with extraordinary opulence as well as sweet, well-integrated, velvety tannins, this fresh, lively, blockbuster La Mission appears to be one of those rare wines that never goes through a closed, unfriendly stage. It has been a compelling, multidimensional effort from barrel, in its infancy, and as it heads into late adolescence. A remarkable tour de force in winemaking, it is one of the all-time profound La Mission-Haut-Brions. Anticipated maturity: now-2050.

Both La Mission-Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion hit home runs in this vintage, which did not produce as many profound wines as the Bordeaux publicity machine suggested. 1989, the 200th anniversary of the French revolution, was an incredibly hot year (surpassed only by 1990 and 2003). Even from barrel the seamless 1989 La Mission revealed a special elixir aspect, tasting like it had been designed by Chanel. It still possesses a blue/purple color with only a hint of garnet creeping in, and the explosive aromatics offer up notes of licorice, creme de cassis, blueberry liqueur, smoky barbecue meats, truffles and graphite. If that’s not enough to get one salivating, the palate has never disappointed either. Full-bodied with extraordinary opulence as well as sweet, well-integrated, velvety tannins, this fresh, lively, blockbuster La Mission appears to be one of those rare wines that never goes through a closed, unfriendly stage. It has been a compelling, multidimensional effort from barrel, in its infancy, and as it heads into late adolescence. A remarkable tour de force in winemaking, it is one of the all-time profound La Mission-Haut-Brions. Anticipated maturity: now-2050.

12: Mitteldunkles Weinrot. Ein gewaltiger Kräuter-, Malz- und Süssweinreigen, Cakesfrüchte, Rosinen und weitere Dörrfrüchte, vollwürziges Mission-Cabernetparfüm, berauschend, aber nicht erdrückend. Reicher, voller Gaumen, nur langsam öffnend, weiche, mollige Tannine, überaromatisches Finale. Gehört fraglos zu den neuen, künftigen Mission-Legenden. Wer davon trinken darf, braucht keine weiteren Erklärungen. Trinken, träumen, taumeln… (20/20). 12: Noch recht dunkel, satt in der Mitte. Zart jodiger Beginn, hat noch Cassisresten, während der Haut-Brion sofort loslegte, gibt sich dieser Mission zu Beginn noch etwas reserviert, alles kommt aus der Tiefe, Perigourd-Trüffel, Brazil-Tabak, Jasmintee. Im Gaumen fest, komplex und mundfüllend, viel Fleisch im Innern, das Extrakt ist noch ganz fein aufrauhend und gibt diesem ungestümen Mission so viel Charakter, im Finale Kräuternoten von Fernet-Branca und Ricola. Von der Kraft her dem Haut-Brion überlegen, betrachtet man nur die Schönheit, so ist der Haut-Brion vorne. Ein Potential für locker 50 weitere Jahre.

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion can surpass even Haut-Brion these days, but on this occasion, juxtaposed against its sibling, it must accept a silver medal. That's not to infer it is nothing less than a brilliant Pessac. Taking time to open, it has an elevated bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, white pepper and a hint of licorice. The palate is powerful and dense, not as precise or as pixelated as the finest examples, yet fans out with joie-de-vivre on the finish and a tang of black olive on the aftertaste. Awesome. Tasted at Woo Cheong Tea House.

What a nose of pressed flowers and full-throttle dried fruits. Full-bodied, with intense and very ripe fruit that has undertones of dried fruit, raisin and grilled meat. Chewy and decadent, almost rustic, offering so much richness and decadence. So much to give still, but why wait?—'89/'99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. –JS

What a nose of pressed flowers and full-throttle dried fruits. Full-bodied, with intense and very ripe fruit that has undertones of dried fruit, raisin and grilled meat. Chewy and decadent, almost rustic, offering so much richness and decadence. So much to give still, but why wait?—'89/'99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. –JS