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98 Robert Parker
The 2008 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is pure excitement. The bouquet alone is alluring, but then the wine begins to open up on the palate, revealing extraordinary depth. An explosion of fruit follows as dark berries, mint, roses, incense and tar flesh out in all directions. Huge, powerful tannins frame an extraordinary finish. This is going to be a thrilling Monfortino to follow over the coming years and decades. Anticipated maturity: 2028-2048. Roberto Conterno’s 2008s capture the best qualities of the vintage. They are intensely perfumed and impeccably refined. These will be fascinating wines to follow over the coming years. As for the rest of the wines in cask, they are pretty spectacular, too. Today I am most optimistic about the 2010s, but there seems to be no shortage of great wines aging in this historic cellar. Readers who want to get an early impression on 2010 will want to check out Conterno’s Barbere, which are shaping up beautifully.
Producer
Giacomo Conterno
Without a doubt, Giacomo Conterno is one of the greatest producers in Barolo. Though they have viticultural roots going back to the 18th century, they only began producing Barolo in 1908 when the family was running a tavern in San Giuseppe, near Monforte d’Alba. In the 1920s, they were considered one of the first producers to have bottled Barolo at a time when Barolo was sold in casks and in demi-johns. In the 1930s, the winery started making Barolo Monfortino which had a vast ageing potential. In 1954, the winery went on to produce a Barolo and a Barolo Riserva and in 1961 the two sons Giovanni and Aldo took over the family business. Aldo, however, did not share the house’s purely traditionalist philosophy and in 1969 he created his own estate (Poderi Aldo Conterno). In 1974 with the purchase of the Cascina Francia vineyard, the winery put an end to the outsourcing of grapes and in 1980 the first vintage from their own grapes was produced under the name Barolo Cascina Francia. Today, the ultimate and purest expression of Barolo can be found in the bottles bearing Giacomo Conterno’s name. These wines are rich, powerful, well-structured and capable of long ageing in bottle.