Sperss 2011 75cl

With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the 2011 Langhe Sperss is a wine of profound beauty. This is a velvety and caressing expression with dark fruit layers followed by kirsch, cassis, leather, balsam herb and white truffle. The Gaja family decided to move their bottling date forward in order to preserve the integrity and freshness of fruit in this warm vintage. This move has helped to avoid overripe sensations. In fact, Langhe Sperss seems fresh and tonic. This bodes exceptionally well for its aging potential. My meeting with Angelo and Gaia Gaja revealed a few surprises including a fascinating look at the 1996 Langhe Gaia & Rey Chardonnay tasted from magnum. Gaja's long-time winemaker, Guido Rivella retired last year. He had consulted with the Gaja family since 1970 and today Alessandro Albarello has taken over as winemaker. One subtle change in approach concerns the DOCG Barbaresco. In the past, the wine represented a blend of fruit from 14 vineyards. With the 2012 edition, that number has been taken down to eight instead in an effort to better underline the wine's territorial identity. Gaia Gaja describes this break from tradition as "a very difficult decision" to make.

Love the aromas of plums, flowers and dried mushrooms here. Wet soil and lavender too. Full body, firm tannins and a long, delicious finish. The combination of delicious fruit and velvety-textured tannins gives this wine form and structure.

A mix of licorice, black cherry, vanilla, spice and tobacco aromas and flavors marks this intense red, which stays fresh and long, showing balance overall. All the elements are there, just needs time. Best from 2019 through 2033. 2,000 cases made.