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Costa Russi 1999 75cl

DOC | Langhe | Piedmont | Italy
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Critics scores
98 By Robert Parker
95 By James Suckling
The 2007 Langhe Costa Russi combines richness and focus to a degree that has seldom been seen here. This insanely beautiful wine boasts a breathtaking bouquet, explosive, generous fruit and an absolutely eternal finish. Layers of dark red fruit, minerals, flowers and spices saturate every corner of the palate as this mind-blowing Costa Russi struts its stuff. This is a towering effort from Angelo Gaja. The wine should be accessible fairly early and age for decades. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2037. My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.
Producer
Gaja
Barbaresco would not be the same without Gaja’s iconic reputation. This venerable domaine not only drew worldwide attention to the region, but they have also shown the quality that is attainable not just with Nebbiolo, but with “outside” varieties as well. Their story started over 150 years ago, when Giovanni Gaja founded the winery in 1859 to complement the food in his restaurant. Today, the company is managed by the fourth and fifth generations, Angelo Gaja and his children. Over the years, the Gaja name has grown to represent not only exceptional quality, but unique and intriguing flavors that are unlike any others from the region. The single-vineyards are a blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera, like all the wine produced before the introduction of the DOCG denomination. This denomination was established in 1966, and it is mandatory for the wines to be 100% Nebbiolo. For this reason, he declassified most of his single-vineyard wines and took the denomination of Langhe Nebbiolo DOC instead, in order to reach the specific style he desired. Gaja currently produces a total of twelve different Piemontese wines, as well as, seven Tuscan wines from Montalcino and Bolgheri.