Barbaresco 2009 37.50cl

The 2009 Barbaresco is absolutely remarkable for the way it carersses the palate with endless layers of sweet red fruit. Will the 2009 shut down in bottle? Truth is, I don’t know, but the wine is exceptionally beautiful and polished from the very first taste. Ripe, red berries, crushed flowers and deeply spiced notes are woven into an intricate fabric of indescribable class. I am not sure how Angelo Gaja and his team do it, but this is a super-impressive wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Angelo Gaja doesn’t say too much about his wines these days. He doesn’t need to. The wines more than speak for themselves. What impresses me most about the 2009s is the elegance of their tannin. This is a vintage where managing the crop load was critical in achieving balance. Gaja is one of the very few growers who got it right. His wines stand out for their textural finesse and sense of harmony. Although Gaja is easily the most glamorous winery in Piedmont, it remains a family affair, with Angelo Gaja’s wife Lucia, and their daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved, and their younger brother Giovanni set to follow in their footsteps. Long-time winemaker Guido Rivella keeps a much lower profile, but he is the man who has produced all of Gaja’s most legendary wines going back to 1970. Angelo Gaja describes 2009 as a year with a lot of rain until June. The bunches on average were loose and the berries small, which resulted in high skin-to-juice ratios, which is quite favorable for ageworthy wines.

The aromas are restrained for now, but the latent perfume is there. Locked up tightly on the palate, with dusty tannins asserting themselves on the finish. Could exude a sense of purity and complexity if given time. Features a long, spicy aftertaste. Best from 2015 through 2027. 750 cases imported. –BS