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93 Robert Parker
The 2008 Barbaresco emerges from the glass with sweet red cherries, spices, flowers and licorice. This is an attractive Barbaresco with excellent depth and a firm, tannic spine that is very nicely integrated with the fruit. The 2008 isn’t a blockbuster, but it should drink well with minimum cellaring. This is a classic, linear Barbaresco endowed with terrific energy and focus. Right now the 2008 seems to be holding its cards close to the vest. I would not be surprised to see it show even better in a few years’ time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. This is a stunning set of wines from Angelo Gaja and his team in Barbaresco. Those who think 2008 is a truly great year for Nebbiolo must have tasted these wines. In a vintage that is inconsistent across the villages of Barbaresco, Gaja has produced not one but four stellar wines. As fabulous as these wines are, they aren’t especially true to type, as I explain in these notes. The 2008s I tasted in the US showed far better than the bottles I tasted in Barbaresco during the summer. Perhaps the onset of the cool fall weather gave these wines a little more spine than they had during the sweltering heat of August. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Gaja may want to take a look at my video interview with Gaia Gaja and vineyard manager Giorgio Culasso.
Producer
Gaja
Barbaresco would not be the same without Gaja’s iconic reputation. This venerable domaine not only drew worldwide attention to the region, but they have also shown the quality that is attainable not just with Nebbiolo, but with “outside” varieties as well. Their story started over 150 years ago, when Giovanni Gaja founded the winery in 1859 to complement the food in his restaurant. Today, the company is managed by the fourth and fifth generations, Angelo Gaja and his children. Over the years, the Gaja name has grown to represent not only exceptional quality, but unique and intriguing flavors that are unlike any others from the region. The single-vineyards are a blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera, like all the wine produced before the introduction of the DOCG denomination. This denomination was established in 1966, and it is mandatory for the wines to be 100% Nebbiolo. For this reason, he declassified most of his single-vineyard wines and took the denomination of Langhe Nebbiolo DOC instead, in order to reach the specific style he desired. Gaja currently produces a total of twelve different Piemontese wines, as well as, seven Tuscan wines from Montalcino and Bolgheri.