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97 By Robert Parker
The 2013 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked from the afternoon of October 7 and over the next two days at 18 hectoliters per hectare. It has a heavenly nose with exquisite mineral-rich red cherry, wild strawberry, blood orange and subtle woodland, damp autumn leaf and moss aromas that are extraordinarily complex. It seems to gain vigor and intensity with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, a slightly suppler La Tâche compared to recent years, a wine with an athleticism. There is nothing wasted or superfluous here, a honed La Tâche that is all about tensile structure matched by perfect acidity and an incredibly complex, kaleidoscopic finish that seems so mercurial in the glass, initially offering red fruit then changing its mind and revealing darker and more tertiary notes. In a word: awesome. Production is 1,023 cases. Tasted February 2016.
Producer
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Not only the most iconic domaine in Burgundy, but also possibly in France and even in the world. With a monopoly of the two greatest vineyards - Romanée-Conti and La Tâche - and with a generous handful of some others within Vosne-Romanée and beyond, it secured its revered position all while being completely discreet and even modest. It is co-owned by the Villaine and Leroy-Roch families, with Aubert de Villaine guiding the ship since 1974. But it can trace its roots back to the 13th century, when its first vines were planted by the monks of Saint-Vivant. They have been organic since the 1980s and biodynamic since the 1990s. They are also undoubtedly the most famous domaine in the region that uses (and has always used) whole cluster fermentation, an established technique that was eschewed by Henri Jayer, but has inspired many others in recent years. Allen Meadows, arguably the most knowledgeable Burgundy expert and critic in the world, has only given one wine a perfect score - the 1945 Romanée-Conti.