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98 By Robert Parker
97 By Wine Spectator
The 1978 La Tâche Grand Cru is admittedly a wine that I have always wanted to taste, just the stratospheric price tag prohibiting me from doing so...until now, thanks to the generosity of my host rather than me winning the lottery. My expectations were understandably sky high given the reputation, but I was not disappointed because it lived up to everything I hoped for. Mature in color with wide bricking on the rim, the nose is utterly bewitching with fragrant scents of orange peel, iron piping, damp undergrowth, wild mushroom and a hint of dried blood. It felt intense yet beautifully defined. The palate felt fully mature after 38 years, the tannins completely melted. While there is not the weight of the 1978 Romanée-Conti, there is a sense of presence and grandeur imbued by this La Tâche. The balance is perfect, the symmetry beguiling, and it gently fans out on the pure, caressing finish. It offers everything you could wish from a mature Pinot Noir, a hauntingly beautiful wine that I shall remember for a very long time. Tasted September 2016.
Producer
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Not only the most iconic domaine in Burgundy, but also possibly in France and even in the world. With a monopoly of the two greatest vineyards - Romanée-Conti and La Tâche - and with a generous handful of some others within Vosne-Romanée and beyond, it secured its revered position all while being completely discreet and even modest. It is co-owned by the Villaine and Leroy-Roch families, with Aubert de Villaine guiding the ship since 1974. But it can trace its roots back to the 13th century, when its first vines were planted by the monks of Saint-Vivant. They have been organic since the 1980s and biodynamic since the 1990s. They are also undoubtedly the most famous domaine in the region that uses (and has always used) whole cluster fermentation, an established technique that was eschewed by Henri Jayer, but has inspired many others in recent years. Allen Meadows, arguably the most knowledgeable Burgundy expert and critic in the world, has only given one wine a perfect score - the 1945 Romanée-Conti.