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Nelin 2015 75cl

DOCa | Catalonia | Spain
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Critics scores
95 By Robert Parker
The one white here, the 2015 Nelin has a base of Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo (the grape that in Rioja is called Viura) from vines ranging between five and 20 years of age. This underwent a 10- to 15-day cold soak followed by a slow fermentation, which can last from five to 15 months! In fact, this is a vintage that took a full 15 months to ferment. It matured in 1,200-liter oak vats for 12 months followed by six months in stainless steel. The extremely long fermentation resulted in a closed, austere wine that should develop very slowly, as it was in a reductive phase for a very long time. This is a very austere and serious white that is more about soil than fruit. There are subtle aromas of dried flowers, chamomile and wet stones, and the palate is round, complete and has integrated acidity and supple flavors with a mineral, austere finish. They believe this wine is better two years after bottling and that it develops for a long time in bottle. There is no Viognier in this vintage, and they are slowly removing foreign varieties. 7,500 bottles were filled in June 2016. This is one of the best whites from Priorat.
Producer
Clos Mogador
Situated in the wine region of Priorat, on the wild hills above Tarragona and not far from Spain’s north-eastern coast, Clos Mogador was created in the 1980s by René Barbier. Formed in Burgundy and then at the University of Bordeaux, he then trained in many estates and châteaux across France, including Château Pétrus. The vineyards of Clos Mogador are situated on terraces on the hills close to the village of Gratallops and benefit from an exceptional schist soil. With the help of his knowledge as well as with the use of modern techniques, René Barbier takes care of every detail. He also favours biodiversity by planting fruit, almond and olive trees as well as flowers amongst the vineyards. Considered an eccentric, he insisted and set himself further apart from the other local producers, particularly with his grape selection, his use of a century old vertical press that he recovered from an old cellar, as well as his use of wood or cement vats rather than stainless steel. Vinification takes place is open wooden vats and the wines are not filtered. The end results are superb which have given Clos Mogador an international and cult following.