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Clos Mogador 2012 75cl

DOCa | Catalonia | Spain
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Critics scores
98 Robert Parker
The 2012 Clos Mogador is nothing short of spectacular. They started in 1999 with some Cariñena, and they gradually increased the Garnacha and reduced the Cabernet. 2012 is possibly the vintage of Mogador with less Cabernet, as it didn't behave well in such warm year. René Barbier senior tells me it reminds him of the freshness of the 2000 that he generously uncorked for me to compare; they only have a handful of bottles for the old vintages! The nose of this 2012 is still little reticent but not reduced like many vintages in the past, slowly showing a great Mediterranean-Atlantic balance with notes of herbs, wet slate and graphite. The super-elegant palate offers great acidity and freshness with incredibly layered and delineated flavors that have an electric, mineral sensation with tension and really fine tannins. There are no traces of oak and no edges... rugged silk? This is a Mogador for decades. If this is always a bargain for the quality it delivers, it is even more so in 2012! I had the opportunity to walk the Clos Mogador and Manatees vineyards with proprietor René Barbier, the father of modern Priorat. The focus on getting the soils alive and the careful winemaking of René Barbier Jr. resulted in the best wines they have produced since they started in 1989. Their wines are always carefully priced and represent good value for Priorat.
Producer
Clos Mogador
Situated in the wine region of Priorat, on the wild hills above Tarragona and not far from Spain’s north-eastern coast, Clos Mogador was created in the 1980s by René Barbier. Formed in Burgundy and then at the University of Bordeaux, he then trained in many estates and châteaux across France, including Château Pétrus. The vineyards of Clos Mogador are situated on terraces on the hills close to the village of Gratallops and benefit from an exceptional schist soil. With the help of his knowledge as well as with the use of modern techniques, René Barbier takes care of every detail. He also favours biodiversity by planting fruit, almond and olive trees as well as flowers amongst the vineyards. Considered an eccentric, he insisted and set himself further apart from the other local producers, particularly with his grape selection, his use of a century old vertical press that he recovered from an old cellar, as well as his use of wood or cement vats rather than stainless steel. Vinification takes place is open wooden vats and the wines are not filtered. The end results are superb which have given Clos Mogador an international and cult following.