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18 Rene Gabriel
Tiefes Purpur, satt in der Mitte, Granatschimmer am Rand. Offenes Bouquet, Zedern wechseln sich mit dunklen Kirschen, und Kirschen mit Cassis und hellem Tabak ab, mittlerer Druck. Saftiger, eleganter, seidiger Körper, wunderschöne Balance, ein Maximum an Harmonie bietend, viel feminine Konturen und somit ein Modell Immerschön von Beginn weg. Vielleicht ist es aber auch ein Barton, den man etwas unterschätzt. Und das gilt für den gesamten Jahrgang. Zwei Mal degustiert.
93 Vinous
The 2011 Léoville-Barton has an endearing nose with well-defined red berry fruit, cedar, pencil box and light sous-bois aromas that unfold with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine depth and precision, well-integrated oak and a tensile, quite saline finish that is elegant and persistent. This is a beautiful 2017 that should age with style. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.
92 Wine Spectator
This has some slightly rugged grip, with a prominent charcoal frame. Delivers ample flesh at the core, offering plum cake, currant preserves and smoldering tobacco leaf notes, offset by a tangy hint of anise. Should settle in well enough after modest cellaring. Best from 2016 through 2026. 12,500 cases made. –JM
Producer
Château Léoville Barton
Planted amongst the gravelly-clay soils, Château Léoville Barton is a long-established top producer in Saint-Julien. After the French Revolution the original Léoville property was split three estates, one being Léoville Barton, and the other two are fittingly Léoville Las Cases and Léoville Poyferré. Known today as one of Bordeaux’s great-value wines, the 2ème Grand Cru Classé property actually lacks its own château. Vinification therefore, with the same attention to detail takes place at the Barton’s family’s other Saint-Julien holding, Château Langoa Barton. From the early 1800s Léoville Barton has belonged to the Barton family, and Anthony Barton has managed the vineyards since 1986. The Grand Vin Léoville Barton is consistently intense and long-lived, a true Bordeaux meant for extended cellaring. The wine is a medium-full claret with well-thought oak, the fleshy, youthfully firm textures will develop harmoniously with several years’ patience.