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Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet 2007 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côtes de Beaune | Burgund | Frankreich
CHF 920.00
Rezensionen & Bewertungen
94 Robert Parker
The Leflaive 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet smells of lily, heliotrope, and narcissus, white peach, pineapple, and toasted nuts. With infectious primary juiciness of ripe fruit accompanied by liquid floral perfume on the palate, and transparent to saline and chalky nuances, this is creamy and rich without sacrificing refreshment or a sense of lift and delicacy. For all of its alluring perfume and suggestions of sweetness, the finish here is remarkably dominated by saline, stony, and savory yet still mineral characteristics. This is a bit less dynamic than the Pucelles but at least for now richer. It strikes me as another candidate for a decade of enjoyment. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.
94 Robert Parker
The Leflaive 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet smells of lily, heliotrope, and narcissus, white peach, pineapple, and toasted nuts. With infectious primary juiciness of ripe fruit accompanied by liquid floral perfume on the palate, and transparent to saline and chalky nuances, this is creamy and rich without sacrificing refreshment or a sense of lift and delicacy. For all of its alluring perfume and suggestions of sweetness, the finish here is remarkably dominated by saline, stony, and savory yet still mineral characteristics. This is a bit less dynamic than the Pucelles but at least for now richer. It strikes me as another candidate for a decade of enjoyment. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.
Hersteller
Domaine Leflaive
Heute ist die Domaine Leflaive im Besitz der vierten Generation in Person von Brice de La Morandiere, dem Urenkel des Gründers Joseph Leflaive. In den 1920er Jahren nahm Joseph die große Verantwortung auf sich, die Weinberge der Familie in Puligny-Montrachet neu zu bestocken, zu erweitern und zu verbessern. In den 1960er und 1970er Jahren trieb Josephs Sohn Vincent diese Entwicklung weiter voran und konzentrierte sich ganz auf die Qualität, woraufhin das Ansehen des Gutes enorm anstieg, so dass seine Weine bis heute extrem begehrt sind. Und auch die nächsten Generationen trugen zum Erfolg bei: Vincents Tochter, die verstorbene Anne-Claude, machte aus dem Anwesen einen biodynamischen Betrieb und rückte so die ohnehin schon hohe Qualität noch mehr in den Vordergrund. Biodynamische Verfahren bewahren die Charakteristika des Terroirs, was sich in den ausgewogenen, strukturierten Weinen zeigt. Heute gilt die Domaine Leflaive als Burgunds bester Weißweinerzeuger, mit Weinen von brillanter Klarheit und Reinheit und komplexer Dimension.