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94 Robert Parker
All readers need to do is taste the 2007 Barbaresco to get a sense of the promise the vintage holds at Gaja. Soft and seamless on the palate, the Barbaresco shows wonderful integrity in its fruit in an opulent, yet mid-weight style. Fragrant, perfumed aromatics are woven throughout, while an attractive spiciness develops in the glass. There is incredible depth to the fruit and simply phenomenal overall balance. Readers will not want to miss this Barbaresco; arguably Gaja’s finest since 1997. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.
93 Wine Spectator
Bright, rich and powerful, boasting oak spice that adds interest to its cherry, licorice and tobacco flavors. Shows fine intensity and a chewy texture. Initially a little dry on the finish, but with extended aeration, this gets better and better, with a long aftertaste of sweet spice. Best from 2013 through 2028. 100 cases imported
Produttore
Gaja
Il Barbaresco non sarebbe lo stesso senza la fama iconica di Gaja. Questa antica tenuta non solo ha attirato l'attenzione in tutto il mondo sulla regione, ma ha anche mostrato la qualità raggiungibile non solo con il Nebbiolo, ma anche con varietà "esterne". La storia è iniziata oltre 150 anni fa, quando Giovanni Gaja fondò la cantina nel 1859 per accompagnare il cibo nel suo ristorante. Oggi la società è gestita dalla quarta e quinta generazione, Angelo Gaja e i suoi figli. Nel corso degli anni, il nome Gaja è cresciuto per rappresentare non solo una qualità eccezionale, ma sapori unici e intriganti che sono diversi da tutti gli altri della regione. I vini da singolo vigneto sono un assemblaggio di Nebbiolo e Barbera, come tutti i vini prodotti prima dell'introduzione della denominazione DOCG. Questa denominazione fu stabilita nel 1966 e i vini devono essere Nebbiolo al 100%. Per questo motivo Gaja declassò la maggior parte dei suoi vini da singolo vigneto e acquisì invece la denominazione Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, allo scopo di raggiungere lo stile specifico desiderato. Gaja produce attualmente un totale di dodici diversi vini piemontesi, nonché sette vini toscani a Montalcino e Bolgheri.