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94 Robert Parker
All readers need to do is taste the 2007 Barbaresco to get a sense of the promise the vintage holds at Gaja. Soft and seamless on the palate, the Barbaresco shows wonderful integrity in its fruit in an opulent, yet mid-weight style. Fragrant, perfumed aromatics are woven throughout, while an attractive spiciness develops in the glass. There is incredible depth to the fruit and simply phenomenal overall balance. Readers will not want to miss this Barbaresco; arguably Gaja’s finest since 1997. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.
93 Wine Spectator
Bright, rich and powerful, boasting oak spice that adds interest to its cherry, licorice and tobacco flavors. Shows fine intensity and a chewy texture. Initially a little dry on the finish, but with extended aeration, this gets better and better, with a long aftertaste of sweet spice. Best from 2013 through 2028. 100 cases imported
Producteur
Gaja
Le Barbaresco ne serait pas ce qu’il est aujourd’hui sans l’emblématique Gaja et sa renommée. Ce domaine vénérable a non seulement attiré l’attention du monde entier sur le Barbaresco, mais il a également démontré le potentiel qualitatif de cépages autres que le nebbiolo, notamment des variétés exogènes. C’est en 1859, que Giovanni Gaja a décidé de fonder une cave afin d’assurer l’approvisionnement de son restaurant en vins aptes à se marier avec ses plats. Aujourd’hui, la société est dirigée par les 4ème et 5ème générations, Angelo Gaja et ses enfants. En 150 ans, le domaine s’est métamorphosé et les vins tranchent avec le style régional, non seulement en raison de leur niveau qualitatif mais également pour leur caractère unique. Les sélections parcellaires sont assemblées à partir de nebbiolo et barbera, comme tous les vins régionaux avant l’entrée en scène de la dénomination DOCG. Celle-ci, introduite en 1966, rend obligatoire l’élaboration de vins issus à 100% de nebbiolo. D’où la décision d’Angelo de déclasser une grande partie de ses sélections parcellaires pour commercialiser ses vins sous la dénomination Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, cela afin d’affiner le style particulier qu’il recherchait. A présent, Gaja propose au total 12 vins du Piémont, de même que 7 vins toscans de Montalcino et Bolgheri.