Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1996 75cl

The 1996 is a firm, austere, pinched effort revealing notes of cigar tobacco, Provencal herbs, tar, and red currants in addition to attenuated, dessicated flavors in the finish. While the bouquet merits a score in the upper eighties, the flavors are much less impressive. Some believe this type of vintage will expand and become richer with time in the bottle. However, I'm doubtful. Nevertheless, all this proves is that even Soldera can not always hit the bull's eye when vintage conditions are this challenging. After a remarkable run of great vintages for this idiosyncratic producer, Soldera has turned out a mere mortal wine in 1996, admittedly a difficult vintage for Brunello. I recognize the controversial nature of these wines, which possess high volatile acidity as well as incredible perfumes. For many tasters, they have too many things going on. However, I have loved previous vintages, even if they are among the most expensive wines in Italy. Anticipated maturity: now-2015.