The Steading 2017 75cl

Wonderfully earthy notes with porcini, dark chocolate, ripe red berries and a blackberry edge. The palate has focus and density; fine-grained tannins carry ripe dark plums and berries long. A blend of 52% grenache, 25% shiraz and 23% mataro. Drink or hold.

The 2017 The Steading offers consumers a mid-priced chance to sample the Torbreck style. A blend of 51% Grenache, 25% Shiraz and 24% Mataro, it matured 18 months in a large foudre. Black cherries, anise and cracked pepper all appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is supple and rich, marked by flavors of plum, dark chocolate and spice cake. All those elements linger harmoniously on the long, velvety finish.<br/>Torbreck, under chief winemaker Ian Hongell, continues to go from strength to strength. I recently tasted through this lineup of wines scheduled for March 2019 release (the knockout 2016 RunRig will come out in June) and came away believing that the wines have never been better. That's not to slight any of his predecessors, just that with his fresh perspective, additional investments in renovating and developing vineyards (viticulturist Nigel Blieschke deserves a lot of that credit) and a renewed commitment to excellence, even the inexpensive cuvées are looking impressive. Having seen a few barrel samples of the higher-end 2018s, I can hardly wait for my next trip to the Barossa.<br/>