92 By Robert Parker
The 2003 Colheita Tawny Port is a typical Douro blend bottled in 2016 with a long cork. It comes in with 118 grams per liter of residual sugar and 20.5% alcohol. For a relatively young tawny, this shows fine concentration and grip, with a youthful and lively finish. Burly and powerful, this opened up over several days, proving that it had some elegance, too. In most ways, for a young Colheita this is a big overachiever, more solid than one might expect and with more power. (Vintage 2003 was a very big and warm Douro vintage.) The spirits do announce their presence every now and then, my only quibble. Over some days (and when drunk at the proper cooler temperatures), it was fine, balanced by the concentration and richness here. Overall, this is pretty impressive in depth and power for what amounts to a 13-year-old tawny. With that long cork, you can lay it down a bit, too. You certainly don't have to, but this might acquire a bit more "suave" over the course of a decade or so.<br/>The last time I saw Noval's age-indicated tawnies, I was very impressed. Nothing has changed my mind. These are among my favorites—concentrated, classic and focused. The longer they sit in barrel, the longer they can be held, but wines with bar-top corks are not meant to be held, so dive in. They certainly don't need to be aged. Remember also: no aged tawny should be drunk anywhere near room temperature. Take it out of the fridge and let it warm in the glass. Try it at different places. See what you like best. Most would suggest that 58-62 degrees Fahrenheit will be the sweet spot, depending on the wine and your taste. Finally, the others are pretty fine, too. For a young Colheita, that 2003 has a lot of pop and concentration.
The 2003 Colheita Tawny Port is a typical Douro blend bottled in 2016 with a long cork. It comes in with 118 grams per liter of residual sugar and 20.5% alcohol. For a relatively young tawny, this shows fine concentration and grip, with a youthful and lively finish. Burly and powerful, this opened up over several days, proving that it had some elegance, too. In most ways, for a young Colheita this is a big overachiever, more solid than one might expect and with more power. (Vintage 2003 was a very big and warm Douro vintage.) The spirits do announce their presence every now and then, my only quibble. Over some days (and when drunk at the proper cooler temperatures), it was fine, balanced by the concentration and richness here. Overall, this is pretty impressive in depth and power for what amounts to a 13-year-old tawny. With that long cork, you can lay it down a bit, too. You certainly don't have to, but this might acquire a bit more "suave" over the course of a decade or so.<br/>The last time I saw Noval's age-indicated tawnies, I was very impressed. Nothing has changed my mind. These are among my favorites—concentrated, classic and focused. The longer they sit in barrel, the longer they can be held, but wines with bar-top corks are not meant to be held, so dive in. They certainly don't need to be aged. Remember also: no aged tawny should be drunk anywhere near room temperature. Take it out of the fridge and let it warm in the glass. Try it at different places. See what you like best. Most would suggest that 58-62 degrees Fahrenheit will be the sweet spot, depending on the wine and your taste. Finally, the others are pretty fine, too. For a young Colheita, that 2003 has a lot of pop and concentration.
