98 By Robert Parker
Light gold in color, with an extraordinary nose of poached pears, citrus honey and a touch of orange rind, the 2009 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard has beautiful fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel, penetrating acids and an underlying minerality and richness. The finish goes on for a good 40-45 seconds. This is sensational Chardonnay and very much in keeping with this vineyard. Drink now-2020.
There is no doubt that Marcassin is the most difficult appointment for people to schedule, to sit down and taste wine with owners Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer. The legacy they have created in California wine is immense. They are in their early seventies, and have decided to completely dedicate themselves to their own vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. I saw them recently, and tasted through these current and upcoming releases of both the Estate Chardonnay and Estate Pinot Noir. The Chardonnay, of course, comes from very low-yielding old Wente clones of Chardonnay planted on the slopes of the Sonoma coastline hillsides. This clone is believed to have been brought over from Burgundy’s grand cru vineyard, Corton-Charlemagne, decades ago.
Marcassin Chardonnay
Here are the notes on the bottled 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and barrel samples of the 2013 and 2014. As readers know, this is probably one of the most Burgundian-styled Chardonnays ever made in California, and it has attracted many imitators. It goes through full malolactic fermentation, and sees a good dosage of new oak, but the tiny yields and meticulous winemaking are brilliant, and the wines, by and large, have aged very well, with the first Estate Chardonnays from 1996, 1997 and 1998 still going strong. The same can be said for some of Helen Turleys first Chardonnays from purchased fruit, particularly from the Lorenzo Vineyard, Hudson Vineyard and Gauer Vineyard/Upper Barn (now owned by the Jackson family, and known as their Alexander Valley Mountain Estate).
Marcassin Pinot Noir
The acreage on the 20-acre Marcassin Estate Vineyard is equally split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir parcels are planted with multiple clones, although the so-called Calera clone seems to have dominance over the others. All of these Pinot Noirs trend toward resembling grand crus from Morey-Saint-Denis in Northern Côtes de Nuits in Burgundy, given their forest floor, mushroom, sweet plum, currant and cherry notes. They are very sexy, lush and certainly capable of 10-15 years of cellaring, possibly longer. As we’re just coming up on 19 years on the 1996, Marcassin’s debut vintage, one thing that’s interesting is that the ripeness in their parcels is almost completely different each year, depending on the growing season. While some of the critics of these wines have claimed that they are relatively high in alcohol, the truth is that some are as low as the upper 13% range, and the ripest they have ever been tends to be just over 15%.
97 By Wine Spectator
Amazingly seductive, from the initial aromas of smoky, toasty, creamy vanilla-scented oak to the richer mix of wild berry and raspberry fruit. Lifts midpalate and soars from there, finishing with a pleasing tannic grip and a long, persistent finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,800 cases made. –JL
Light gold in color, with an extraordinary nose of poached pears, citrus honey and a touch of orange rind, the 2009 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard has beautiful fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel, penetrating acids and an underlying minerality and richness. The finish goes on for a good 40-45 seconds. This is sensational Chardonnay and very much in keeping with this vineyard. Drink now-2020.
There is no doubt that Marcassin is the most difficult appointment for people to schedule, to sit down and taste wine with owners Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer. The legacy they have created in California wine is immense. They are in their early seventies, and have decided to completely dedicate themselves to their own vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. I saw them recently, and tasted through these current and upcoming releases of both the Estate Chardonnay and Estate Pinot Noir. The Chardonnay, of course, comes from very low-yielding old Wente clones of Chardonnay planted on the slopes of the Sonoma coastline hillsides. This clone is believed to have been brought over from Burgundy’s grand cru vineyard, Corton-Charlemagne, decades ago.
Marcassin Chardonnay
Here are the notes on the bottled 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and barrel samples of the 2013 and 2014. As readers know, this is probably one of the most Burgundian-styled Chardonnays ever made in California, and it has attracted many imitators. It goes through full malolactic fermentation, and sees a good dosage of new oak, but the tiny yields and meticulous winemaking are brilliant, and the wines, by and large, have aged very well, with the first Estate Chardonnays from 1996, 1997 and 1998 still going strong. The same can be said for some of Helen Turleys first Chardonnays from purchased fruit, particularly from the Lorenzo Vineyard, Hudson Vineyard and Gauer Vineyard/Upper Barn (now owned by the Jackson family, and known as their Alexander Valley Mountain Estate).
Marcassin Pinot Noir
The acreage on the 20-acre Marcassin Estate Vineyard is equally split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir parcels are planted with multiple clones, although the so-called Calera clone seems to have dominance over the others. All of these Pinot Noirs trend toward resembling grand crus from Morey-Saint-Denis in Northern Côtes de Nuits in Burgundy, given their forest floor, mushroom, sweet plum, currant and cherry notes. They are very sexy, lush and certainly capable of 10-15 years of cellaring, possibly longer. As we’re just coming up on 19 years on the 1996, Marcassin’s debut vintage, one thing that’s interesting is that the ripeness in their parcels is almost completely different each year, depending on the growing season. While some of the critics of these wines have claimed that they are relatively high in alcohol, the truth is that some are as low as the upper 13% range, and the ripest they have ever been tends to be just over 15%.
