Champagne Brut Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002 75cl

With a true "eye of partridge" nose, this has the boldness of the 2002 vintage and is unique in that the wine is based on 80% chardonnay as a top rosé Champagne. The aromas are floral with sweet decayed rose hip and a clear toasty edge showing through, as well as fine wild red fruits and some peach and stone fruits. There's a completely unique style here in terms of the chardonnay making a statement of gentle nougat, while some dried red berries lurk beneath. The palate has precise, sleeve-like long texture and is really focused and even. The freshness is startling, meanwhile, and this really looks very young and unevolved. There's some very gentle tannin in the mix here, adding nutty toasted hazelnut elements on the finish. Acidity is pronounced and, having the last say, keeps everything really fresh. Drink now.

This is subtle up front, with delicate aromas and flavors of pink grapefruit granita, pickled ginger, spun honey and biscuit. The smoky underpinning of minerality gains momentum, riding the lacy mousse to a fresh and persistent finish. Drink now through 2027. From France.—A.N