Champagne Brut Cuvée Argonne 2004 75cl

Straw yellow towards golden in color, the sumptuous 2004 Aÿ Grand Cru Argonne Brut from 70-year-old Pinot Noir vines offers a very clear and discreet, yet complex and "Burgundian" bouquet with elegant flavors of white and yellow fleshed fruits, citrus aromas (the whole range from oranges and mandarins to lemons), gooseberries, mushrooms, juniper and fresh oak. Fermented and raised on the full lees for one year in Argonne oak barrels (30% of which were new), this is a full-bodied, rich and filigree-structured, very elegant, precisely defined and finesse-full Aÿ Champagne. It has remarkable freshness and mineral stringency. Less rich and round than the Fût de Chêne, the tightly woven, yet bright and lifted Argonne is more built on mineral purity, finesse and elegance. The finish is firm but amazing, and indicates a great ageing potential. All in all, this is a fascinating, age-worthy new luxury cuvée. Total production is 8,000 bottles. Based in Ay, Henri Giraud produces luxury Champagnes of unique quality and style. The 2004 Argonne Brut is a fascinating Pinot Noir fermented and aged in noble 228-liter barrels of Argonne oak; whereas the famous Fût de Chêne MV07 contains 30% Chardonnay, which seems to add generous fruit and freshness. Both wines are widely rich in flavors and body, but at the same time they are pure, precise and highly elegant—revealing a gorgeous vinous quality. Both are great, unfortunately highly expensive, Champagnes; although, I prefer the mineral purity of the 2004 Argonne to the exuberant richness and sumptuous fruit of the (2007) Fût de Chêne.

Soft and creamy, with a rich panoply of toasted coconut, orange marmalade, brioche, crystallized honey and banana cream pie flavors. The firm, finely knit acidity keeps this vibrant and focused. Offers a long, well-spiced finish. Drink now through 2029. 700 cases made.