94 Robert Parker
The bright golden colored 2008 Aÿ Grand Cru Argonne Brut is what Henri Giraud calls "the diamond of our range, the best of the best of what we do". Based on 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay fermented and aged on the full lees for 12 months in Argonne oak barrels (of which 95% were new), the HG flagship cuvée opens with a clear, fresh, very fine, elegant and complex bouquet with matured fruit and brioche flavors. Highly elegant, round and fruity on the palate, this is a fine yet intense, matured, well-structured, complex and persistently salty 2008 that was disgorged in July 2017, after eight years on the second lees. 4.000 bottles made. Tasted April 2018.<br/>Henri Giraud is one of the smallest Champagne houses and is fully family owned. The boutique winery in Aÿ (Marne Valley) is led by CEO Claude Giraud, who combines "science and experience with passion and expertise,” and thus is highly innovative and handcrafts Champagnes in a unique style under the direction of Chef du Cave Sébastien Le Golvet. Many of the cuvées (always with a large percentage of Pinot Noir, except for the newer Blanc de Craie, which is a pure Chardonnay) are fermented and aged on the full lees for six to 12 months in Argonne oak barrels before the aging in bottles that takes two to eight years. The alternative to oak? Terracotta amphorae shaped like eggs! Since November 2016, there is no stainless steel vat in the "New Generation Cellar" in Aÿ. Oak and terracotta vats not only allow the wines to breathe, but their small sizes also "boost the interaction between the wine and its entire sediment that contains antioxidants and aromatic precursors,” Claude Giraud explained during the opening of the new cellar one and a half years ago. As a result of the long aging of the vins clairs on the full lees and the partly excessive use of new oak, the cuvées from Henri Giraud have a very particular style whose oak influence is prominent rather than the expression of fruit and terroir. Here, the Argonne Forest seems to be the terroir, and it's up to you if you like the full-bodied, intense, structured, rather vinous style or not. Although I have never tasted really matured wines after disgorgement, I suppose the best will age very, very well and will always be great wines with food. Also, compared to the wines I tasted some years ago, the oak influence has been reduced a bit. The wines have become purer, finer and fresher, at least that's my impression without having tasted the styles side by side. There are some less-oaky cuvées produced here as well. Just try the impressive Dame-Jane Rosé, the charming and finessed Esprit Nature or the delicious Hommage à François Hémart. At the end of last year, the 2008 Argonne Brut was released. It's a rare and spectacular cuvée that comes in equally spectacular packaging that was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. Giraud called the box, which looks like a stylized tree, "the epitome of purity." If you can't (or don't want to) afford the fabulously expensive wine or simply can't find it the store, you should at least Google it! Getting it out of the box is an adventure for itself.
93 Wine Spectator
Richly aromatic, with lime blossom, graphite and oak spice notes on the nose accenting flavors of glazed apple and brioche. Soft and creamy, enlivened by well-knit, citrus peel acidity and the delicate zestiness of the mousse. Drink now through 2025.
