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97 By James Suckling
Hang on to your hat and open your mind for this extraordinary pinot noir that redefines what Swiss wine can be. Deep and extremely subtle nose of red berries and cherries with delicate spice and some flint. Breathtakingly focused, racy and filigree palate that’s only just opening up. Extremely long finish that’s very mineral, in a cooler way than the great red Burgundies that inspired this masterpiece. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.
Producer
Gantenbein
Along the breathtaking Rhine Valley of Grisons, the Gantenbein winery is found in the small wine-growing village of Fläsch. Founded in 1982 by Martha and Daniel Gantenbein, they began by planting their 6-hectare estate with Burgundy clones. Today the property is predominately dedicated to Pinot Noir production, while much smaller areas are devoted to Chardonnay and Riesling growth. Martha and Daniel agreed early on that quality was key – therefore meticulous viticulture and vinification processes are followed. They even use gravity-feed tanks, where the flow of the grapes and the juice is regulated by the earth’s natural pressure without the need of pumps or filters. Along with their top Pinot Noirs, the estate also crafts two smaller production wines of Riesling and Chardonnay.