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98 By Robert Parker
95 By Wine Spectator
The 1978 Romanée Conti Grand Cru is a wine that I thought I would never taste. This bottle was served at a private dinner in Beaune with Bertrand de Villaine present. The bottom line is -- it delivered. With a thin tawny rim it shows its age, but the bouquet is truly transcendental, a mixture of red and black fruit such as wild strawberries and raspberry, and a hint of pomegranate all beautifully defined. With aeration it begins to offer more secondary aromas, such as brown sugar and a scent of a Tuscan delicatessen. The palate lives up to expectations with very fine tannins, fresh and tensile with a veneer of shimmering dark plum and raspberry fruit that soon gives way to more meaty notes, almost ferrous towards the finish. It has almost unbearable finesse. Is it a perfect wine? Almost. As much as I could, I drank this, as it is just a sublime and evocative Pinot Noir. Tasted November 2015.
Producer
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Not only the most iconic domaine in Burgundy, but also possibly in France and even in the world. With a monopoly of the two greatest vineyards - Romanée-Conti and La Tâche - and with a generous handful of some others within Vosne-Romanée and beyond, it secured its revered position all while being completely discreet and even modest. It is co-owned by the Villaine and Leroy-Roch families, with Aubert de Villaine guiding the ship since 1974. But it can trace its roots back to the 13th century, when its first vines were planted by the monks of Saint-Vivant. They have been organic since the 1980s and biodynamic since the 1990s. They are also undoubtedly the most famous domaine in the region that uses (and has always used) whole cluster fermentation, an established technique that was eschewed by Henri Jayer, but has inspired many others in recent years. Allen Meadows, arguably the most knowledgeable Burgundy expert and critic in the world, has only given one wine a perfect score - the 1945 Romanée-Conti.