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90 By Robert Parker
The DRC was unhappy with their 1992 and will not produce any Montrachet. Those millionaires lucky enough to have access to this rarity, frequently the most concentrated Chardonnay made in the world, should be pleased with the 1991 and 1990. The 1991 Le Montrachet is a fat, unctuously-styled wine made from yields of only 32 hectoliters per hectare. Although rich, it does not have the depth and power of vintages such as 1990, 1989, and 1986. Soft and precocious because of low acidity, it should be drunk over the next decade.
Producer
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Not only the most iconic domaine in Burgundy, but also possibly in France and even in the world. With a monopoly of the two greatest vineyards - Romanée-Conti and La Tâche - and with a generous handful of some others within Vosne-Romanée and beyond, it secured its revered position all while being completely discreet and even modest. It is co-owned by the Villaine and Leroy-Roch families, with Aubert de Villaine guiding the ship since 1974. But it can trace its roots back to the 13th century, when its first vines were planted by the monks of Saint-Vivant. They have been organic since the 1980s and biodynamic since the 1990s. They are also undoubtedly the most famous domaine in the region that uses (and has always used) whole cluster fermentation, an established technique that was eschewed by Henri Jayer, but has inspired many others in recent years. Allen Meadows, arguably the most knowledgeable Burgundy expert and critic in the world, has only given one wine a perfect score - the 1945 Romanée-Conti.