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95 By Robert Parker
Plums, blackberries, dark cherries, spices, and chocolate emerge from the rich aromas of the 2003 Romanee-Conti. A penetrating, medium to full-bodied, fleshy wine, it possesses, according to Aubert de Villaine, the estate?s co-director, the highest level of natural acidity (closely followed by the Richebourg) of the domaine?s 2003s. An enormously structured (verging on firm) effort, it offers cassis liqueur, spice, black cherry, and plum flavors. Its finish, marked by solid tannin, is impressively persistent. Projected maturity: 2014-2030+.
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Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Not only the most iconic domaine in Burgundy, but also possibly in France and even in the world. With a monopoly of the two greatest vineyards - Romanée-Conti and La Tâche - and with a generous handful of some others within Vosne-Romanée and beyond, it secured its revered position all while being completely discreet and even modest. It is co-owned by the Villaine and Leroy-Roch families, with Aubert de Villaine guiding the ship since 1974. But it can trace its roots back to the 13th century, when its first vines were planted by the monks of Saint-Vivant. They have been organic since the 1980s and biodynamic since the 1990s. They are also undoubtedly the most famous domaine in the region that uses (and has always used) whole cluster fermentation, an established technique that was eschewed by Henri Jayer, but has inspired many others in recent years. Allen Meadows, arguably the most knowledgeable Burgundy expert and critic in the world, has only given one wine a perfect score - the 1945 Romanée-Conti.