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90 By Robert Parker
The Chambertin is a more closed, deeper-colored wine than the outstanding Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques. The Chambertin reveals an impressive dark ruby/purple color, a closed bouquet, and tight, hard tannins. This deep, broad-shouldered, full-bodied, intensely concentrated, chewy-textured, closed wine needs 5-6 years cellaring. It should last through the first decade of the next century. At the top level, Rousseau consistently produces three profound wines - Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques (as good as most producer's grands crus), Chambertin-Clos de Beze, and Chambertin. That being said, I remain perplexed as to why Rousseau's other wines are so surprisingly light and fluid. While good, sometimes very good, they are markedly inferior to his top three wines. Never one to jump on the bandwagon for forward, super-ripe vintages, (he still believes 1983 is the finest vintage of the eighties), Rousseau is unpersuaded by the acclaim bestowed on 1990.
Producer
Domaine Armand Rousseau
Considered the most famous Gevrey-Chambertin property in the world, Domaine Armand Rousseau is highly celebrated for their vinous history, outstanding holdings and above all, their quality wines. Domaine Armand Rousseau dates back to the early the 20th century, when founder, Armand Rousseau crafted his first bottlings in the 1930s. His son, Charles later took control of the property and further enlarged production. Charles led the estate for over 40 years, before passing down the property to his children, Eric and Brigitte. Today, Eric is in charge of the domaine’s viticulture and viniculture, with the help of his daughter, Cyrielle. The property is home to 14 hectares of vines, 8 of which are planted exclusively to Pinot Noir and are Grands Crus. Here, the old-aged vines and reasonable yields give Rousseau wines their classic, typical style. Domaine Armand Rousseau continues to produce wines that seem somewhat light in their youth, but take on weight as they age, making them the perfect bottles to cellar for several of years. The domaine’s top wines, Chambertin and Chambertin Clos-de-Béze, represent the great potential of Burgundy’s Grands Crus vineyards. These wines, along with the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos-Saint-Jacques label, receive 100% new oak and are characterized as the greatest productions in Burgundy.