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Manyetes - Vi de la Vila Gratallops 2009 75cl

DOCa | Catalonia | Spain
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2009 2016
Critics scores
92 Robert Parker
Around 2,000 cases have been produced since the maiden 1989, but there are also a number of what you might call “side projects” that I have included in this report. For example, “Manyetes” was a project begun in 1999 that seeks out old vines. The 2009 Manyetes is a blend of 90% Carinena and 10% Garnacha from hot, south-facing slopes and comes under the “Vi de Villa” denomination mentioned in the introduction. It has a lifted bouquet with dark cherries, sloes, lavender and a touch of white pepper with fine delineation, all wrapped in a touch of warm alcohol. The palate is full-bodied with smooth, rounded tannins, layers of precise, peppery red fruit cut through with fine acidity. It has a firm tannic backbone and is quite masculine and tertiary, with an edgy, mineral-rich finish. This is very expressive of the grape variety, a Carinena full of personality and charm, though I would not touch a bottle for 5-6 years.
Producer
Clos Mogador
Situated in the wine region of Priorat, on the wild hills above Tarragona and not far from Spain’s north-eastern coast, Clos Mogador was created in the 1980s by René Barbier. Formed in Burgundy and then at the University of Bordeaux, he then trained in many estates and châteaux across France, including Château Pétrus. The vineyards of Clos Mogador are situated on terraces on the hills close to the village of Gratallops and benefit from an exceptional schist soil. With the help of his knowledge as well as with the use of modern techniques, René Barbier takes care of every detail. He also favours biodiversity by planting fruit, almond and olive trees as well as flowers amongst the vineyards. Considered an eccentric, he insisted and set himself further apart from the other local producers, particularly with his grape selection, his use of a century old vertical press that he recovered from an old cellar, as well as his use of wood or cement vats rather than stainless steel. Vinification takes place is open wooden vats and the wines are not filtered. The end results are superb which have given Clos Mogador an international and cult following.