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17 Rene Gabriel
Dreimal verkostet. Erstmals bei der Fassprobe 1989, wo ich ihn eher zurückhaltend bewertete: Ein erfreulich üppiger 88er. Viele andere Sauternes sind mineralisch und floral. Ein guter Wert, der auch sehr langlebig ist. 99: Hat gewaltig zugelegt: Herrlich offenes Bouquet; nicht allzu süss mit einer pflanzlichen Würznote, Pimpernellen, Safran und Sweet Corn, ausserdem noch immer sanfte Röstnoten von der Barrique her. Im Gaumen gut stützende Säure, sanft trocken im Extrakt, angenehme, defensive Süsse im Finale. Kein Wein, der sich ideal zu süssen Desserts eignet, jedoch hervorragend zu Käse und Gänseleber mundet (17/20). 04: Beim Diner auf Château Haut-Condissas zum süssen Abschluss kredenzt bekommen: Einerseits recht dick, dann aber auch eine süsse Trockenheit in sich bergend (17/20). 06: Eine Flasche aus den Châteaubeständen während einen Diner auf Pichon Baron im Frühling 2006 verkostet. Zarte Schiefernoten, grüne Aprikosen, helles Malz. Im Gaumen frisch, Melassetouch, zeigt noch recht viel Reserven und kann vielleicht gar noch zulegen. 17/20 trinken – 2025
88 Robert Parker
The 1988 reveals a textbook, light gold color with a slight greenish hue. Although it does not display the weight of the 1990 or 1989, it has better acidity, high alcohol, and considerable sweetness. It is somewhat disjointed, needing time to knit together. It is impressive if its components are evaluated separately, but it is less noteworthy when reviewed from an overall perspective. There is bitterness as well as fiery alcohol in the finish. The wine does not offer much delineation, so cellaring should prove beneficial as it does have admirable levels of extract. Suduiraut can make powerful, rich wines that are often rustic and excessively alcoholic and hot when young. I am told they become more civilized with age, and certainly older, classic Suduiraut vintages have proven that to be true. I feel this estate's propensity to produce a luxury cuvee (Cuvee Madame) in vintages such as 1989 tends to have a negative impact on the regular cuvee.
Producer
Château Suduiraut
Château Suduiraut is a great Sauternes estate, following neighbors d’Yquem and Climens, standing alongside Rieussec and De Fargues. Situated in the commune of Preignac, the present château was built by the Suduiraut family in the 17th century. Since 1992, this Premier Grand Cru Classé property has been in the hands of AXA, owner of Château Pichon-Longueville in Pauillac and Château Petit-Village in Pomerol. This change in management has enabled a number of advancements in the estate’s viticulture and viniculture approaches. The 91-hectare vineyard covers the superb terroirs of the Left Bank, built on its sun soaked and well-drained lands, the dichotomy between opulence and minerality in their wines has become a Suduiraut signature. The passionate team carefully harvests the fruit, with a later picking period when the noble rot is in full effect. The wines are full and rich, barrique-aged for 18 to 24 months adds depth and concentration. The Grand Vin Suduiraut is of top-quality.