Le Petit Cheval Blanc 2016 75cl

Pow! The 100% Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Le Petit Cheval Blanc explodes from the glass, delivering a tantalizing perfume of ripe peaches, mango and fresh pineapple with hints of lime blossoms, lemongrass, fresh ginger and spearmint plus a waft of cedar. Medium to full-bodied, the palate bursts with tropical and stone fruit flavors complemented by a compelling textural component and a racy line of acid, finishing very long and very delicious.<br/>“We have a clay subsoil, which is great for managing the dry spells,” Cheval Blanc’s technical director, Pierre-Olivier Clouet, informed me regarding the 2016 vintage. And this is certainly true of a significant portion of this relatively large estate (for the Right Bank), which is mainly composed of gravel or sand over clay, while a smaller area is made up of deeper gravel. “If we want to find the right balance between freshness of fruit and the dry spells, we need some water,” Clouet smiled matter-of-factly. One of the most significant developments here in recent years is the degree of precision viticulture that is now practiced at Cheval Blanc. For example, the 39-hectare vineyard has been subdivided and is now farmed as 45 different plots, based on grape variety, age of vines and soil type. To accommodate these separately managed plots, the new cellar contains 52 vats available in nine different sizes (20 hectoliters to 110 hectoliters), designed to correspond to the harvest from each plot, which are vinified separately. This affords a whole other level of control when it comes to selection and, ultimately, ensuring consistency of quality. “From 2016 we have a little Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend as we did historically, but it disappeared when the plots were replanted,” Clouet went on to tell me. “We replanted 1.4 hectares in 2014 and will start using it in the blends, looking to achieve about 5% eventually.”

Distinctive, with a mix of chive, fennel and thyme notes leading the way, followed by white peach, jicama and yellow apple core flavors. Very pure, with rounded edges and a racy spine. A horse of a different color. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2024. — JM