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Champagne Extra Brut Millésime 2007 75cl

AOC | Côte des Blancs | Champagne | France
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2003 2007
Critics scores
97 Robert Parker
Whereas Selosse's vintage bottling was formerly derived exclusively from Avize, the 2007 Extra-Brut Millésime is the first that draws on all the estate's holdings, with the vins clairs chosen in a blind tasting. Wafting from the glass with aromas of yellow apple, toasted almonds, nougat, shortbread, warm spices, honeycomb and white flowers, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with incisive acids, chalky structure and a tensile profile. A bottle drunk in Burgundy several weeks after my visit to the domaine was just as striking.
96 Vinous
On to the wines. I upset one or two of this parish by blaspheming against Jacques Selosse when I recounted how one bottle performed. I make no apologies for that. I criticize when I see fit and praise likewise, which is what I will do here. The 2007 Extra Brut Millésime Grand Cru sings like a choirboy in an empty cathedral. Limpid straw in hue, it presents a bouquet of lanolin, crème brûlée and acacia honey scents, with just a light oxidation underneath, here lending complexity. There is a slight viscosity at opening, along with fleeting glimpses of orange pith and apricot. A subtle bitter edge imparts tension on an ebullient, saline finish that lingers in the mouth. This is a brilliant Champagne and, lo and behold, unlike last time, everyone finished their glasses.
Producer
Champagne Jacques Selosse
One of the true icons in Champagne, the Jacques Selosse House of Champagne has taken the region by storm, surpassing past traditions with the force of brilliant new ideas and efforts. Established in 1949 by Jacques Selosse, his son Anselme, however, is the man responsible for Champagne’s most recent renascence. By the late 1970s, Anselme took over the Avize estate, following in his father’s reputation, Anselme has become one of the most fascinating vintners in the appellation. He is a unique, magnetic individual that takes a Burgundian approach to his wines. That includes low yielding vineyards, and organic viticulture to provide the purest, most intense fruits possible. His radical vinification processes utilize new and old oak to barrel-ferment each base wine separately. Harvested from 35 different plots, his 7.5-hectares stretch across most of the appellation, there are Chardonnay parcels in the Côte des Blancs — Avize, Cramant, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger — and a few Montagne de Reims plots, that are dedicated to growing Pinot Noir, as well as in Aÿ, Ambonnay and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. This rather small producer consistently crafts some of the most compelling and original Champagnes in France.