Châteauneuf du Pape Vieux Télégraphe La Crau 2005 75cl

This is dense and chewy, but not tiring to drink, thanks to fresh acidity and an edgy, gravelly feel that drives the blackberry, currant and sweet spice notes. The long finish has great briary grip, with notes of garrigue and hot stone checking in. Best from 2010 through 2030. 15,830 cases made. ?JM

The 2005 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape, this estate?s strongest vintage since 1998, has put on serious weight since last year. Dense ruby/purple-colored with an exquisite perfume of black raspberries, kirsch, ground pepper, and incense, this full-bodied, powerful, concentrated wine reveals fabulous purity as well as a finish that lasts over 45 seconds. Purchasers of this beauty will need patience. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.