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Testamatta 2018 600cl

IGT | Tuscany | Italy
CHF 810.75
Critics scores
97 James Suckling
Very subtle aromas of cherries, bark, black truffles and flowers. Hints of crushed stones. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight and solid with a very tight, minerally structure. Very long and intense. Racy and bright at the end. Powerful, orange-peel and citrus-fruit undertones. Salty and minerally. This needs time to develop in the bottle. Extremely structured. A wine not to touch until after 2023.
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
Producer
Bibi Graetz
Firstly, an artist and graduate of the Academia dell’Arte in Florence, Bibi Graetz started making wine in the late 1990s and has since become one of the Tuscany’s most inspired winemakers. Born and raised in Italy and without any formal training, Graetz produces wine at his family home in Fiesole, a castle called Castello di Vincigliata. He decided early on to focus on the production of native Tuscan varieties, mostly Sangiovese, but also Colorino and Canaiolo and a tiny bit of Malvasia Nera and Moscato Nero. The fruit is sourced from old-age vines (ranging from 30 to 60-years-old) around the Chianti Classico area, including Maremma, the island of Giglio and Montalcino. Vinification is carried out in open fermenters and the resulting wines are inky-black red in color exposing a spectacular range of intensity and ingenuity. His flagship wine, Testamatta, which roughly translates to “Hot Head”, is made entirely from old-vine Sangiovese and is a powerful red with notes of cherry and tobacco. Another fascinating feature of his wines are that all of their labels are designed by Graetz himself, ultimately inspired by the Tuscan sun. From artist to cult winemaker, Graetz’s wines get better and better with every vintage, they are certainly top collectible Tuscan wines.